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The Green Mile

S Dakota > Spearfish Canyon > Shadowlands

Description

A friendly, not so secluded area, that is just enough off the beaten path where beginning climbers can get a taste for Spearfish Canyon climbing. This area contains two separate walls. The wall on the left is blonde rock that contains The Gift and Norm's route. These are two popular beginner routes that get sun in the early afternoon. The wall to the right consists of black, slabby rock which is home to some uber-classic two star lines. The black wall is located next to a tunnel that was blasted through the mountain in order to accommodate the infamous Homestake aqueduct system. This pipe system is made of a combination of wood, old-fashion terracotta and concrete. It's origins from the days of yore gives The Shadowlands a bit of historical significance and is guaranteed to be a source of fascination for anyone who has read a book or watched The History Channel. It might also be the reason the route names for the wall contain reference to laying pipe. With the innuendo aside, the combination of cool air blowing from the tunnel, and the fact that this wall never sees daylight, makes it a perfect afternoon retreat on scorching summer days.

Getting There

Walk past the Court House Wall, walk past the Seepy Creepy Wall and up a short hill. Follow the green, mossy road to success. Blonde routes are located to the climbers' left and black routes are located to the climbers' right.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 43
Norm's Route
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 46
The Gift
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 11
Foreplay
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 15
Trucker Love
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 18
Pickup Sex
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 23
PDA
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 7
We Were Just Horny
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Norm's Route
 43
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Gift
 46
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Foreplay
 11
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Trucker Love
 15
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Pickup Sex
 18
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
PDA
 23
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
We Were Just Horny
 7
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport

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On Norms Route
[Hide Photo] On Norms Route

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Shayne Quinn
Rapid City
[Hide Comment] There is a little confusion where the 5'10 "we were just horny" route is. To the right of the arret (PDA I think is the arret climb) there is a set of hangers as the finish anchor (Middle) on one route and a set of bolts with no anchor or hangers to the right of it. I am not sure which route is the original 5'10 but the climb with the hangers (Middle) looks like a large decent sized hold fell off and felt harder than just a 5'10.
From left to right on that wall:
Trucker Love - Closest to the cave
Pickup Sex - shares anchors with PDS
PDA - start just right of arret finishes on 'Pickup Sex' anchors
We Were Just Horny (Has hangers for anchors possibly missing a core hold for 5'10 grade)
?Mystery Route? - there are hangers going up to two unfinished bolds with no hangers or anchors on it. Aug 21, 2022