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Spaghetti Western Wall
Utah
> S Central Utah
> San Rafael Swell
> San Rafael Swel…
> Mexican Mtn Rd…
> Red Canyon
Description
The Spaghetti Western Wall is a large Wingate crag on the west side of Red Canyon about 5 miles up the Mexican Mountain Road. The rock is high quality, and there are quite a few routes up here(much more than what is listed in the Bjornstad blue guidebook). There are even a pair of easy hand cracks, which is a rarity in the swell.
Getting There
Drive to the mouth of Red Canyon, which is the first really major side canyon about 4.5 miles up the Mexican Mountain Road. 2WD will most likely be shut down here, but 4WD can continue into Red Canyon to the Wilderness Study area boundary. There are many nice campsites in Red Canyon.
To approach the wall, walk up the dry creek bed to where Red Canyon splits into two major branches. Take the left branch, and after a tenth of a mile or so leave the streambed/road at a campsite with a fire ring and a tree. Hike cross country to an obvious break in the Chinle cliffs below the middle of the wall. There isn't much of a trail, but there are some cairns scattered around and the going isn't hard with good routefinding. The hike up takes about an hour.
[Hide Comment] There isn't much of a trail at all up the boulder field. In fact, we didn't find any evidence at all of *recent* activity. Some older sections of climbers trail that looked like they hadn't been used in years. No cairns, either, except for 1 small one right above the break in the Chinle cliffs. I found it easier to approach the base of the cliffs following an OBVIOUS wash that was compacted due to vehicle traffic heading due west, starting from where the main wash splits into the northeast and northwest sub canyons. Tons of camping there. Follow the wash to the base of the cliffs where a nice campsite and what appears to be a grave for a dog marked with 'KALHU Peace Dog'. Then, head North for 100m and head up the boulder field. Route finding is necessary.
There are probably 10 or so routes with anchors, most of which have nylon webbing instead of chains.
Nov 30, 2020
The next Dylan wall of the swell!* I hiked down the wash to the north which worked nicely, I felt like we found the cairns pretty easily on way up just shooting for the break in the lower cliff band thanks Dan. Lots of good routes up there with plenty more to do!
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Salt Lake City, UT
There are probably 10 or so routes with anchors, most of which have nylon webbing instead of chains. Nov 30, 2020
Colona, CO
- The next Dylan wall of the swell!* I hiked down the wash to the north which worked nicely, I felt like we found the cairns pretty easily on way up just shooting for the break in the lower cliff band thanks Dan. Lots of good routes up there with plenty more to do!
Nov 9, 2023