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Routes in Qijin Island

Xin Nian Kuai Le! S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Elevation: 54 ft
GPS: 22.613, 120.264 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Nate Ball on Feb 14, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball
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Description

Where the Love River meets the Taiwan Strait, a sandbar of an island juts up out of the water. On its northwest side, several hundred meters of imposing, overhanging limestone cliffs tower above the beach and a strip of jungle. The cliffs closer to the north have potential for dozens of absolutely epic 30+ meter climbs, if you could figure out how to rappel-bolt them and clear the jungle away enough to approach it. As you follow the trail southward, down the west side of the island, you come to a boardwalk that reaches a pier, a beach, and a tunnel. Hop the fence to sand below. There is one route here currently, which ascends the first clean wall. There is evidence of other climbing as well - lots of abandoned slings. There are also some top anchors nearby. The cliffs continue south, but eventually the beach disappears with or without a high tide. People often boulder in the overhang at the southern end of this cliff band. It is usually very windy here, and sand will get into all of your climbing gear, though its not so gusty as to affect your climbing. There are policemen that regulate the climbing from the comfort of the boardwalk ("no climbing without a rope" said one to my friend who was bouldering above the sand). Since its a very touristy island, and climbing has such a visible impact, any bolting effort would have to be cleared with the local authorities. No word on how or when the first bolts were put in. The single route that's here now is worth the trip alone, with some great bouldering, swimming, and food to make this a must-visit for any climber in Kaohsiung.

Getting There

Take the ferry from Gushan Pier. It's a 10-minute walk from the Siziwan MRT Exit 1. It costs $15 (50 cents). Even if the lines are long, you won't have to wait more than 20 minutes. Once on the island, turn right (north) and stay on the path that goes around the edge of the island, below the lighthouse. You will soon see the imposing cliffs. Continue on the trail past these to the boardwalk. Hop the railing and down-climb to the beach. Pick your pleasure.

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Updated directions:
Find your way to the ferry in Sizihwan. There is an MRT station. If you take exit 1 of the MRT then turn left, as soon as you come to the ocean port, take a left to get to the ferry. Take the ferry 5 minutes to the island. When you get off the ferry, head straight ahead across the first major intersection then turn right down a residential road toward the lighthouse (more specific directions to come later).

Here you will come to a sign that says if you go up the hill to the right you will get to the lighthouse and to the left you get to the fort. You want to turn left before you get to that hill. I say DON'T GO UP THE HILL. Instead you want to turn left just before the hill. When you get to the T, turn right and follow this road until you see a small sandy parking lot on your left. THIS IS HEADING TOWARD THE BEACH. When you get to the parking lot by the beach, you will see a tunnel. GO THROUGH THE TUNNEL.

When you get through the tunnel (there will be glow in the dark stars and patterns on the ceiling inside) look to your left immediately once you come out the other side. This is the climbing beach. You will want to hop over the railing and find your way down to the beach either by scrambling or walking out to the jacks ahead. Once on the beach, you will see one fully bolted line on the prow closest to the railing. It's around a 10c or 10d. Far to the right of this (where the rock juts in forming a sort of cave) BEFORE the corner closest to the water, there is an anchor point around 10 meters up the wall (2 bolts). There is also one bolt above that anchor point. To the right about 5 meters of this highest bolt, there is a handle (hole in the rock) with several pieces of webbing tied around it. To the right of THAT WEBBING, there will be more webbing tied around another hole in the rock. And finally where the cliff juts out and forms a corner that meets the ocean, there is a piece of webbing tied around the horn about 10-12 meters up. All this webbing is secure and safe and ready for top roping. It's up to you to find a safe way up to it.

Unfortunately, development here, just like elsewhere in Taiwan, is very contentious. So I'll just say, as of now, development is not allowed here. One final note to be included is that IF YOU CLIMB AT QJJIN, BE READY FOR CROWDS OF CURIOUS ONLOOKERS. You will have many eyes on you so do be an ambassador for the climbing community. ENJOY! Jan 12, 2014

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