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Routes in Shepherdstown Limestone Triple Roof Crag

Cut 'em off at the pass TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Grin Reaper, The TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jakes Right TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shawn Davis Special, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Two Mules for Sister Sara TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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This crag faces approximately NNW. It is along the C&O canal, upstream of the route 34 bridge from Maryland to Shepherdstown, WV, on the Maryland side. It appears to be on C&O Canal Park lands. The rock is limestone or possibly dolomite. The rock itself is very good quality but there are portions that are highly fractured so it can be "chossy". This cliff, as for most limestone cliff, will require cleaning and some climber traffic before it cleans up completely. Beware of loose holds until a route has seen traffic. Wear a helmet, please.

Getting There

Take Canal Rd off of 34 to get to parking. Walk the canal upstream until you see the cliff on your right. Go past it to a ravine that you can hike up to the top to set up toprope. Be careful not to knock debris down on climbers below as the lip has loose soil, sticks, rocks.

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anyone ever park up top? did the whole hike around thing this week and it was pretty crappy - very loose and muddy...

came back today to retrieve some rap gear and its about 15 seconds to reach the top of the anchors from the little pull out - plenty of room just not sure if ill get hassled

PS - HUGE ant nest right on the lip of the cliff (ouch) Apr 14, 2015
Hey JJ,
I'm not sure which way you took to the top. If you scramble up the base of the cliff all the way to the top it really sucks. But if you take a side trail on the other side of the canal back almost underneath the route 34 bridge you will find a much gentler way to the top of the cliff. It doesn't help you when you have rapped in and are ready to leave and need to get your top rope gear but it is another option worth mentioning. The short option you mention was always something I avoided. I didn't want to start a new parking trend etc. so I stayed with the official parking area under the bridge. It also use to be that there were office buildings for park staff at the area you are referencing. Those buildings have been torn down but I still see rangers parking back there periodically. I recommend, for the communities sake, that you stay with the official parking area under the bridge. That or inquire with the park service about parking in the 15 seconds approach area for access to hiking trails, etc. If you learn something, post up so all of us know. Thanks Jun 5, 2015
Lex Rodgers
Martinsburg, WV
Lex Rodgers   Martinsburg, WV
My buddy and I cleaned this up today. Bolts looked great. It was chossy, but we tried to pull off as much loose rock as possible, as well as clear the top and base of the cliff. Would love to see more people climbing here. Helmets are necessary. Jul 9, 2016

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