Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Big Belt Mountains

Montana > Southwest Region

Description

The Big Belt Mountains are a range east of Canyon Ferry Reservoir outside of Helena. The range runs from southwest of Great Falls to the Northern Bridgers. The central and northern portions of the range (north of Highway 12, between Townsend and White Sulphur Springs) hold the most interesting features from a climber's perspective. In particular, the canyons on the western side have abundant limestone outcrops and cliffs, and some of the rock is even good quality. Given the sometimes friable nature of the rock, most routes are bolt protected, although some mixed and trad routes have been established. Helmets are a good idea, particularly on newly established climbs that have not cleaned up, and in the spring, when loose rock created by the freeze-thaw cycle may be exfoliating.

Beaver Creek, Trout Creek, Hellgate Gulch, and Avalanche Gulch have the most developed climbing, ranging from short single pitch routes next to the road, to multipitch lines in the back country. Many of the routes can be found in guide books like the 1995 "The Rock Climbers Guide to Montana", the more recent but out of print "Central Montana Rock", and the recently published, "The Big Empty". Plenty of climbs are not in these publications or on Mountain Project, so climbers should expect to see unlisted routes at most crags. Some have dog tags with the route name and grade hanging on the first bolt (Avalanche Gulch in particular), others are listed on beta sheets available at Stone Tree Climbing Gym in Helena.

With careful route and area selection, it is possible to climb here year-round in all but the most snowy and cold conditions. Winter Wall in Hellgate Canyon is usually pleasant on sunny winter days. In the heat of the summer, it is possible to chase shade in all areas, but areas in upper Beaver Creek and Trout Creek are particularly nice. Many of these areas are also popular with the OHV crowd, and campsites (established and dispersed) can be busy on summer weekends. Hellgate and Avalanche gulches in particular can have a near constant stream of trucks, quads, and dirt bikes. For those seeking a quiet climbing experience, Beaver and Trout both offer the option to climb further away from the road.

Most crags in the range are under an hours drive from Helena, and around two hours from Bozeman. Dispersed camping can be found on the surrounding National Forest lands and developed camp sites are available at the Trout Creek trail-head east of York and in numerous campgrounds on Canyon Ferry Reservoir.

Getting There

The northern most areas, Trout and Beaver Creek, are best accessed through Helena and York. From Helena navigate to York Road off of Custer Ave. Drive this northeast to the York Bar and either turn left to Nelson and Beaver Creek or stay straight to get to Trout Creek. Hellgate and Avalanche Gulches can be accessed from Helena or Townsend. From Helena, head east on Canyon Ferry Road off Custer or take the 284 cutoff from Highway 12/287 to get to Canyon Ferry Road. Follow the road over the dam, through the development, and past Magpie Gulch staying on the main road. After the speed limit increases, you should see national forest signs on you left for Hellgate and then Avalanche in around a mile of so.

If you are coming from Townsend, head east on Highway 12, but before you reach the mountains go north on Highway 284. After about 20-30 minutes you should see signs for Avalanche then Hellgate Gulches. You can stay on the road until you reach Jimtown Road near the north end of the reservoir if you are headed to Beaver or Trout Creeks via York, but unless you are making a stop on that side of the lake first, it is probably faster to come through Helena.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Kids Don't Float in Montana.
[Hide Photo] Kids Don't Float in Montana.
Overview of climbing areas in the Big Belt Mountains
[Hide Photo] Overview of climbing areas in the Big Belt Mountains
Canyon Ferry Lake after a storm, from the Hellgate Campground (June 2011).
[Hide Photo] Canyon Ferry Lake after a storm, from the Hellgate Campground (June 2011).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

The Morse-Bradys
Lander, WY
[Hide Comment] If you can still find Jake Mergenthaler's "Central Montana Rock" book in print it's definitely worth having, particularly for getting to some of the more obscure areas. May 15, 2013
Ty Morrison-Heath
Bozeman, MT
[Hide Comment] As of 5-22-13 we still have several copies of Central Montana Rock at Spire Climbing Center in Bozeman. May 22, 2013
[Hide Comment] Cool area with a lot of sport climbing much of which is not listed here. There looks to be some cool boulders on W Shore Drive as well. Grades here range from fluffy to sandbagged. Probably best to leave the rack at home as even the cracks have been bolted here. Avalanche has a much wider range of climbs then Hells gate. Oct 12, 2013
bryan dalpes
Missoula, MT
[Hide Comment] I would suggest bringing a light rack as some of the great climbs such as Fire Spire, Sturdy Girdy, etc. require a few gear placements. That is, of course, only if your not comfortable with 30'-50' foot run outs on 5.9 climbing... Jul 25, 2017