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Routes in Miller Pillar

Dingleberry Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Right Cheek, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Elevation: 602 ft
GPS: 37.881, -121.988 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,179 total · 32/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on Jan 29, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock Details

Description

The two routes and descriptions from left to right are:
Dingleberry Crack (5.9)Trad, (FA.Unknown) Good pro for the most part. Climb a short wall to get to the dingleberry, then get pro in and climb around. Continue up to the short crux where the crack gets continually smaller until it runs out just after a fixed pin. Climbing above the pin to the anchors is the real crux because its a bit runnout.

Just to the left is The Right Cheek (5.10+)sport(FA.Chad Suchoski 04) A bouldery start makes this climb much harder. A critical hold broke down low then looks to be chipped back in by some coward who wanted to bring the climb to his level. The crux is sustained through the first two bolts then eases up to .9/10 territory on reachy juggy holds. All bolts are 1/2in by 3 3/4in Powers bolts. Top anchors are 4 3/4 by 1/2in Powers bolts. The bolts are bomber. The rock is a bit loose and hasn't seen to many accents. Probably better for toprope unless you have it well in hand.

Descent is off the top to the right and meets up with the trail leading down from Castle and Flintstone Rocks.

Getting There

The easiest approach to this area is from the Stage Road in Pine Canyon. From the parking lot, the walk in is about 15 minutes. The rocks come in full view as you approach an obvious stream wash crossing the road. An easy approach trail leads up and left of the major rock outcropping to the base of this rock. Continuing up the trail gets you to Flintstone Rock and further up to Castle Rock. Miller Pillar lies below Flintstone Rock about 200 yards and is not set far in from the Stage Road. It is back and left of the very large rock outcropping that sits very close to Stage Road as seen in the photo.

2 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Miller Pillar

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Dingleberry Crack
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dingleberry Crack
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
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