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Routes in Sheep Camp

Elevation: 2,000 ft
GPS: 59.646, -135.279 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Bill Doctorman on Jan 21, 2013
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer
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Description

Located at mile marker 13.5 on the Chilkoot trail, Sheep Camp is located in the Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park and is managed by the National Park Service. Climbing is very undeveloped, but potential for new routes is endless. Climbing is mostly one to two pitch routes on granite or bouldering. Boulder fields are extensive, steep and high quality granite. Most faces are sporadically featured with edges, slopers, jugs and cracks. Route potential exists on both sides of the river, with crack and face climbing in quantities approaching 1000 potential routes or more. Bouldering is located primarily in two talus fields, with some rock spread intermittently below the first field. Lower talus is located at approximately 1.5 miles north of Sheep camp and the upper talus is another 1/2 mile up the trail. Potential could exist beyond the upper talus field however it is limited and quality of rock decreases. Area marked as alpine, as weather can frequently turn poor in very little time and access is relatively remote. No services at location, filter all water and be bear aware. For all willing and adventurous Alaskan climbers, this is the motherlode of cragging and bouldering in Alaska. Despite other locations in Southeast Alaska, Sheep camp does not have a high annual rainfall, estimated at somewhere around 40 inches per year, with many weeks in June and July experiencing 65 to 70 degree days on any given year.

Getting There

From Skagway

Option A: Hike the Chilkoot trail from Dyea, Alaska to Sheep camp. (13 miles, mostly flat until final 5 miles.) Option B: Hike the "Notch" route from the Fraser Customs station. Route to Sheep camp takes about 5 hours and covers about 7 or 8 miles. Very scenic but only accessible in late season. Check with local sources in Skagway or Whitehorse, YT. for information on access.

Permitting required for any stays over night in Sheep camp, consult with the Park Service office in Skagway.

From Sheep Camp, boulders are located north on what is called long hill, the first and largest field is approximately 1 mile north of Sheep Camp. Route climbs are located on both sides of the Taiya River, mostly south of Sheep Camp by 1/2 to 1 mile. If it is dry with limited runoff, check out the waterfall wall (visible 3/4 mile south of sheep camp) for 160' routes on slightly overhanging featured granite (Trad and sport potential).

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