PRINT: Rock Climbing in Big Ben Tower, Smith Rock

(4) Big Ben Tower

Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (v) Monument Area

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

Big Ben faces pretty much due south and, as a result, picks up lots of sun. It's also shrouded in obscurity so you'll likely be the only person there when you go. With a handfull of cragging routes at the base and two full length routes to the summit, it has a lot to offer anyone who doesn't mind the occasional (or not so occasional) creaky hold.

Getting There

Approach as for Monument Area.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 2 ● Time Moves Slow Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 3 ● London Calling Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 3 ● Heart of the Sunrise Sport
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c 1 ● Diamond in the Tuff (open project) Sport 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 4 ● Alpen Symphony Trad 4 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 10 ● Water Groove Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 75 ● You Break It You Buy It Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 8 ● Karwendel Dreams Trad 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 59 ● Good Dobby Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 12 ● Eat Your Leberkase Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b 2 ● Twice A Day Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 3 ● Howl Sport