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This nicely secluded crag is situated not that far off Sherman Pass Road, up on the Kern Plateau proper. The area can be windy and cold in the fall and spring but for the most part, it's an ideal area during the summer months. Mostly sport ranging from 5.7 to 5.11.
Take the 395 North to the Nine Mile Canyon Rd. Turn left and climb Nine Mile Canyon Rd. Drive about 20 to 25 miles to the Kennedy Meadows store. From the store, continue on Sherman Pass road approximately 15 miles until you get to Fish Creek Campground on your left. (Pay FS CG with H20 and pit toilets) on your right you'll find the free camping, “overflow” the trailhead is back 1 mile. Just before the end of the road you can find lots of camping- down by the creek are smaller sites that are best for car camping. Room for car parking at the end of the dirt road. Two trails lead to the rock. When the water is high, cross the steel bridge and hike up a faint trail sticking close to the stream. OR if water is low don’t cross bridge and pickup a well used trail, go over an interesting talus field, and follow it till you have almost gone past the crag and cross creek. Do this and you end up at the left end of the crag. At the start of Lichen It.
It about a 10 minute hike.
| Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ● Lichen it |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport | ||
| ● El Pescador |
|
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport | ||
| ● Fishing for Holds |
|
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport | ||
| ● Go Fish |
|
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport | ||
| ● Overflow |
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport | ||
| ● Sushi Climb |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a TR | ||
| ● Easy corner |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport | ||
| ● Kingfisher |
|
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport | ||
| ● Green New Deal |
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport | ||
| ● Fish Ladder |
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport | ||
| ● Orange Roughy |
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad | ||
| ● Flying Fish |
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport | ||
| ● Slippery fish |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport | ||
| ● Fresh Fish |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport | ||
| ● Fish Spine |
|
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches | ||
| ● Fish Fry |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad 3 pitches | ||
| ● Super Fish Al |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad | ||
| ● Fishing for Edges |
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport | ||
| ● Blow Fish |
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad | ||
| ● Fish and Chips |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport | ||
| ● Fighting the Current |
|
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport | ||
| ● Fishy |
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport | ||
| ● 3G’s |
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad |
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Sacramento, CA
Twain Harte, CA
There are (at least) two Kennedy Meadows in the Sierra Nevada. The Kennedy Meadows near Sonora Pass is a major backpacking trailhead, and it is near a bunch of climbing.
The same is also true about the other Kennedy Meadows, the even bigger trailhead 20 to 25 miles off of Highway 395, south of Mount Whitney.
This Fish Creek area is near the southern Kennedy Meadows. It is not on Sonora Pass. Jun 9, 2014
Small Town, USA
Sacramento, CA
Moorpark, CA
Good in the AM... gets hot in early afternoon, shade in late afternoon May 19, 2015
Atascadero, CA
edit: it was way off but has been moved to the correct location. thx. May 19, 2019
Huntington Beach, CA
@FrankPS - The hill across from the main wall is steep and quite forested with pine trees. I spent about an hour wandering around up there one time looking for a lost drone (not mine) and could hardly ever get a clear view of the wall. Would be hard to accomplish
@splitclimber - The point that is currently marked on the map is the exact location of the bulk of the climbs. where the rock is near the creek. You can wander around the back and find a few more that are in the 5.10 range - I think
@David Knight - A 60m rope will get you off all the climbs on the main slab as well as Fish Ladder. I can't speak for the others Jan 14, 2020
1) The first route on your way up the hill starts with a low bolt under a large flake. Clip the first bolt and move left over the flake and make a couple easy moves to the second bolt. Climb through the easy blocky section above (careful! I yanked on a block to the left of the fourth bolt out of curiosity more than necessity and I think the whole cliff rattled ). Eventually you'll reach a left slanting hand crack. After the hand crack, you'll clip two very closely spaced bolts. Make a couple of tough face moves to clip the last bolt then do an awkward mantle through a dirty offwidth to gain the better holds above and the anchors. I thought this was a letter grade or two harder than Fish Ladder, but I also didn't think Fish Ladder was quite 10d... call it 10d/11a
The next 3 climbs are located in a recess ~100 ft uphill from the first climb. There's a large block on the ground with a bolt sunk into it that you can use to find them.
2) Didn't do this one... 2 bolts up high and (probably) some thin gear lower. Looked hard.
3) Step up into the shallow corner and clip the first bolt to your right. I made a couple of thin slab moves over the first bolt before I chickened out and ran back to the corner. Stepped back out onto the slab to clip the second bolt. The climbing through the dihedral above is highly enjoyable... thoughtful but not strenuous. Finish with a fun move out left towards the anchors. I think this climb could be the best of the bunch once it cleans up (may require a powerwasher with all that lichen). 10a but probably harder if you don't bail off the slab at the bottom.
4) Another fun one. A balancey move past the first bolt looks like it can be bypassed with easier holds out left. Easier climbing above until you reach the steep headwall with the last two bolts. The gf clipped the second to last bolt and moved around the corner to climb the arete. She said it was pretty cruiser... probably 10a/b if done this way while staying on the bolt line down low. I made a couple of thin face moves before grabbing the arete to clip the last bolt... maybe 10c that way. A lovely afternoon of climbing on the whole! Jul 13, 2020
Kernville, CA
Thanks for the beta! My best choice for you is to reach out to William "Bill" Leventhal (here in MP) and inquire if these are his. His been active here these last few years. Jul 14, 2020
Soul Cal
Kernville, CA
- Edit - The directions were changed to match your narrative in the Comments section.
Sep 21, 2022