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Routes in The Gargoyle

New Mother Nature T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1
Elevation: 5,000 ft
Shared By: Drew Spaulding on Dec 22, 2012
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer
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Description

Directly opposite from Mt. Barille, The Gargoyle guards the the entrance to the Ruth Gorge from the north(Don Sheldon Amphitheater) on it's eastern flanks. Realistically, it is the toe of the most north/western shoulder on the Moose's Tooth Massif. The Gargoyle stands on it's own as a 1800' granite wall capped by a snowfield. It's western exposure allows for the wall to be bathed in the sun until dropping down behind Mt. Dickey. There are many crack lines on this buttress, but many wide, wet and loose sections don't encourage a plethora of classics. The only complete route I've seen recorded is a line Dave Medara and I established in July 1997. "New Mother Nature".....
Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park! Details

Getting There

Depending where you land on the Ruth Glacier, The Gargoyle is best approached on skies.The condition of the glacier will determine the difficulty or the ease of gaining the base of the wall. Just a stone's throw directly across the gorge from Mt Barille...

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Photos

My friend and I attempted a big wall on the Gargoyle back in 1983 (same line as Electric View, FA 2004).

Some words of warning: see those big black streaks on the wall? Those are avalanche paths.

Routes like the Beauty and the Beast and New Mother Nature (EEEK!) lay in avalanche paths. My partner and I saw numerous HUGE avalanches roll down those black streaks, especially New Mother Nature. Be smart, be careful! Aug 24, 2014

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