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The Gargoyle Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map This is our best guess at this area's location.
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Routes in The Gargoyle

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New Mother Nature T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1

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Elevation:	5,000 ft
GPS:	62.95864, -150.69263 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	5,002 total · 36/month
Shared By:	Drew Spaulding on Dec 22, 2012
Admins:	L. Von Dommelheimer Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park! Details

Description

Directly opposite from Mt. Barille, The Gargoyle guards the the entrance to the Ruth Gorge from the north(Don Sheldon Amphitheater) on it's eastern flanks. Realistically, it is the toe of the most north/western shoulder on the Moose's Tooth Massif. The Gargoyle stands on it's own as a 1800' granite wall capped by a snowfield. It's western exposure allows for the wall to be bathed in the sun until dropping down behind Mt. Dickey. There are many crack lines on this buttress, but many wide, wet and loose sections don't encourage a plethora of classics. The only complete route I've seen recorded is a line Dave Medara and I established in July 1997. "New Mother Nature".....

Getting There

Depending where you land on the Ruth Glacier, The Gargoyle is best approached on skies.The condition of the glacier will determine the difficulty or the ease of gaining the base of the wall. Just a stone's throw directly across the gorge from Mt Barille...