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Routes in Shelf Ridge (Couch Rock)

Blasted into Tibet V0- 4-
Californio V3 6A
Chocolatero V0- 4-
Christmas Present T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dinner For Two V3 6A
Dry Heat V3 6A
Lord Blockhead V0 4
White Lotus V2-3 5+

Description

Bouldering around Couch Rock. The bouldering options are sparse, but the view is unmatched.

Getting There

The shortest/quickest way: Park as for Shelf Road (top of Gridley Road, one half mile before the road ends at the Gridley Trailhead). Hike up Shelf Road and gain the top of the first hill, then follow the road downhill and look for a steep trail (single track) heading up the hillside on the right. The distance from the parking lot to the single track turnoff is 0.28 miles. This trail will take you the rest of the way to Couch Rock, with the first boulders (Blockhead and Californio boulders) appearing after 0.55 miles (from parking lot).
Alternate access is possible via the newly opened Fox Canyon Trail. This route is longer but less steep and difficult.

8 Total Climbs

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Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
Thank you Richard for reminding me. The Ojai Valley Land Conservancy is in the process of acquiring the land above Shelf Road, thus removing any hurdles to public access. Last I heard it will be a couple months before trails will begin being laid down, but already climbers can use the most popular access trail by parking on Gridley for Shelf Road. Please represent the climbing community well by packing out all trash. The area immediately around Couch Rock has been hit especially hard. Apr 3, 2013
Aren't there some access issues with this place? The Edwards guide seems to suggest so. It would be prudent of you to include any crag access issues on this page, Alexander. Dec 19, 2012
Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
This area has been referred to, for decades at least, as Shelf Ridge (it being the ridge above and paralleling Shelf Road). I think it was during high school (ten years ago) that I heard people calling the place "Couch Rock", however. Many other locals have enjoyed hiking to this place, and still do every day, and practically all of them know of the place as Couch Rock. So I included both names for the sake of clarity. Dec 18, 2012
Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
As far as I know, all routes here were put up by Reese Martin. Some boulder problems were done too with a couple new ones have been added recently. Bring a nice big nylon bristle brush to clean holds with; most of the problems here are new and have seen very little traffic. I'll be posting some pics of problems on the Californio and Dry Heat boulders soon. Dec 18, 2012

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