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Painters Bluff

Arkansas > Northeast Arkansas Re…

Description

A huge Bluff along the white river. best winter climbing.

Getting There

Turn onto Collietown Rd off of the 69, stay on Collietown until it runs into county rd 5, a dirt road coming in from Cushman. Drive untill you see the river. a small turnoff to the left takes you about 50yrds in to park hike down the trail go up or go down at the sign if you go up expect to rap in. if you go down walk nest to the wall until you reach the main area.

***NOTE: Love Valley Hunting Club now owns all of Painter's Bluff and access has been shutoff as of October 2015

Routes from Left to Right

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 2
● Shoeless Mark
Sport 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 2
● Midnight Special
Sport 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 2
● Miller's Mindgames
Sport 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Shoeless Mark
 2
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
● Midnight Special
 2
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
● Miller's Mindgames
 2
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Painters Bluff from the west side of the river. Beta for Shoeless Mark 5.10b, Midnight Special 5.10c, Millers Mindgames 5.10a
[Hide Photo] Painters Bluff from the west side of the river. Beta for Shoeless Mark 5.10b, Midnight Special 5.10c, Millers Mindgames 5.10a

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mitchell Allen
Little Rock, Arkansas
[Hide Comment] Thanks for putting this up with directions! I remember hearing about it quite a few years back and never looked into it. Sounds really cool! Any potential for new routes besides these three on all the rest of that rock? Dec 21, 2012
Eric Van Williams
Oside,CA
[Hide Comment] Yes, this photo only shows about 1/4 of the entire wall... thanks to Mark Mobley for helping me with these routes. Jan 2, 2013
Bart Kensinger
Salt Lake City, Utah
[Hide Comment] This place is super cool, but it is very hard to find the anchors. It took my partner and I more than four hours to find the rap in anchors, and we were very insecure attempting to downclimb to the ledge when we were unsure of the beta. The 70 meter rope is a must to reach the ledge rap anchors. It barely gets you there.

I only did the classic line with my partner (Midnight Express), but it was really nice. We also toproped the 2nd pitch of the 10b next to it which was quite enjoyable also. A bit of a scramble to get down to the anchors.

Some of the best, hard limestone around. Dark gray, pockety, and it would definitely hold gear. I hope somebody nearby gets an itch to put up some lines in this area. It's big and beautiful.

It would be really nice if someone could post a GPS for the top anchor coordinates for Midnight Special!!! for the next guy:) Mar 2, 2015
Stephen M
Lander
[Hide Comment] Has anyone climbed here recently? We are looking to do Miller's Mindgames and would appreciate all the info we can get. Thanks! Nov 9, 2016
JD Borgeson
Little Rock, AR
[Hide Comment] This crag is closed to climbers now. it was purchased and is now used as hunting land. the owners require you to purchase a hunting lease to use. Feb 1, 2017