Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

UB Observatory Cliffs

International > Asia > Mongolia

Description

This is an excellent climbing area right outside UB on towards the eastern end of Bogad Ull above the ski resort. It is well used, but not by tourist. The rock consists of good, solid granite, but you will find a fair share of loose rock because this is Mongolia. The rocks face west and slightly south and are in three main outcrops each getting bigger the higher you go (there is two pitch potential on the highest out crop) along with several other smaller rock ridges rising out of the hill side. There is plenty of sun and plenty of wind (always be aware at the tops there is likely going to be a small hurricane waiting for you which makes throwing ropes down for top roping difficult). The rock generally provides good 5.7 - 5.9 trad climbing (No bolts and there is little need for bolts). There are some 5.10 and 11 routes, and even some 5.12 potential all with good protection and top rope possibilities. Most all of the tops you can walk off, and if not it only requires only a small rappel. Camping is good unless there is a fire danger.

Getting There

Go to the Sky Resort (which is a ski resort). Once inside the gate there is a dirt and gravle road going east. Follow it out of the east Gate of sky resort, and up the hill to the observatory.  Once you do get to the UB Observatory you simply follow the trial that lead toward the top of Bogad Ull. The trail will stay toward the east facing slope and the rocks are at the very top of the west facing slope so you will need head to your west, but don't drop into the valley. The hike to the lowest rocks takes amount 20 min max. To the second set of rock 40 max and to the top 50 max (if you take a small break or two).

Routes from Left to Right

5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 1
The Yellow Turtle
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 2
Little Brown Spots
Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1
Bumps and Tumbles
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 1
Slippy Shoes
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 2
Boy Scout Blocks
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 1
The Corner
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
Bird Face
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 1
Bird Food
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 1
Its Hissing At Me
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 1
The First One Ever
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1
Freaked Out
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
TR Face
TR
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 1
Optimism Curve
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1
Give The Canadian The Slip
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
Leap Frog
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 1
Flaked out
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Yellow Turtle
 1
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a TR
Little Brown Spots
 2
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Bumps and Tumbles
 1
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Slippy Shoes
 1
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Boy Scout Blocks
 2
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
The Corner
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Bird Face
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Bird Food
 1
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Its Hissing At Me
 1
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
The First One Ever
 1
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Freaked Out
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
TR Face
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Optimism Curve
 1
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Give The Canadian The Slip
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Leap Frog
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Flaked out
 1
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Upper Rocks
[Hide Photo] The Upper Rocks
The Bulb Formation (I drew Give the Canadian the Slip on as a topo line for reference)
[Hide Photo] The Bulb Formation (I drew Give the Canadian the Slip on as a topo line for reference)
The wall on the back (east) side of the big face above bird rock. Yellow is Optimism Curve, blue is TR Face, Red is Freaked Out.
[Hide Photo] The wall on the back (east) side of the big face above bird rock. Yellow is Optimism Curve, blue is TR Face, Red is Freaked Out.
The bird rock formation. The bird beak is the large roof in the upper right part of the photo
[Hide Photo] The bird rock formation. The bird beak is the large roof in the upper right part of the photo
Working a project on TR. Feels 5.12- or 5.11d at best.
[Hide Photo] Working a project on TR. Feels 5.12- or 5.11d at best.
Looking south at the bird’s head
[Hide Photo] Looking south at the bird’s head
Beautiful rock up there! This is the bulb that marks the south end of the cliff band.
[Hide Photo] Beautiful rock up there! This is the bulb that marks the south end of the cliff band.
Trying the lower moves of the 5.12+/5.13- project. The hand crack of the 5.11+ project are seen to the right.
[Hide Photo] Trying the lower moves of the 5.12+/5.13- project. The hand crack of the 5.11+ project are seen to the right.
5.12+ or 5.13- project up above most the cliffs on the ridge. There is also a great looking maybe 5.11+ project to closer to the camera on that same overhang.
[Hide Photo] 5.12+ or 5.13- project up above most the cliffs on the ridge. There is also a great looking maybe 5.11+ project to closer to the camera on that same overhang.
Looking north toward UB from the top of the big wall. The bird rock is clearly seen in the bottom left of of the photo.
[Hide Photo] Looking north toward UB from the top of the big wall. The bird rock is clearly seen in the bottom left of of the photo.
A sun set at the top.
[Hide Photo] A sun set at the top.