Elevation: 7,000 ft
GPS: 38.534, -109.381 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 17,710 total · 177/month
Shared By: powerandrubber on Dec 11, 2012 · Updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


North Fork (of Mill Creek) is a great cold weather sport and trad crag in the LaSal mountains about 45 minutes to an hour from Moab, depending on whether or not you can drive the last 1.5 miles. Where you end up is right above Moab in between South and Wilson Mesas on BLM land with massive southern exposure, long sustained pitches on featured sandstone, and scenery as good as anywhere in the Moab area. Probably the only Moab crag with good cell service. If you don’t find something you like, at least you can update your facebook status and complain. Though situated at about 7000’, it is often a solar oven while cold air hangs in the valley during winter inversions. The rim is very flat so runoff is generally not a problem after a storm and moisture/snow gets nuked very quickly if sunny. DO however read the approach info below regarding the final dirt road and mud/snow! The rock is softer and more desert like than Mill Creek so expect tiny edges to be fragile. Make sure the belayer at least has a helmet. Most or all routes have or will clean up with traffic but most are really good as is for the experienced desert climber. This is an approach from above crag like Mill Creek. And it is possible to scramble down below and avoid rapping in for all known routes. But loose unstable side hilling, bush whacking, and down chimneying, make rapping in the preferred alternative for most folks. For all but the Job Board, you will need a 70M rope! I suppose rapping in could eventually be a problem if it becomes busy. By nature, North Fork is definitely not kid friendly or dog friendly for those hounds that don’t do well unattended on the rim.

Let the squabbling begin…

Getting There

Finding North Fork is very easy if you follow directions exactly and use your odometer. It is located off Sand Flats road 2.2 miles from the LaSal loop junction and 15.5 miles from the Sand Flats toll booth. The drive takes about 45 minutes whether you take Sand Flats road from Moab or go around the LaSal loop via Mill Creek. LaSal loop is the smoother, nicer option imo, though Sand Flats is the only option currently due to the ongoing construction at Mill Creek. From here drive your 4x4 with clearance or Suburu that you don’t mind beating up south about 1.5 miles down a rough dirt road in DRY conditions within a 5 minute walk to the rim. Be advised though that this is a committing downhill drive and you may not get back out if muddy or snowy!!! If in doubt walk the extra easy 30 minutes. Please do NOT block either Sand Flats road or the approach road by parking in the way. The dirt road makes one big switchback at a barricaded gate (property line of the private ranch nearby). Then in another half mile you’ll cross a very subtle arroyo then another bigger arroyo which is your easy 5 minute path to the rim. Just after the arroyo a large sagebrush meadow opens up telling you you’ve gone just a bit too far. If driving park here using existing pullouts minimizing impact. Though the crag is sunny, the upper dirt road is not and holds moisture/snow because of shady aspects and pinon tree cover. Snow boots in winter might be a good idea. The crags and routes are listed east to west (climbers left to right, approachers right to left) and are spread out over about 300-400 yards.

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Classic Climbing Routes at North Fork

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bust a Move
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Redhead Arete
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bust a Move Gauntlet Wall
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Redhead Arete Gauntlet Wall
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
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