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Routes in Tyngsborough Quarry

Tyng-a-ling Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c V-easy 3
Elevation: 112 ft
GPS: 42.673, -71.422 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Oliver McMahon on Dec 9, 2012
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer
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Description

This is an old quarry. The tallest face is about 14 feet, slightly overhanging (although the photo makes it look slabby). It's shady with a steep base that would make crash pads impractical. I haven't climbed it yet and don't know if anyone else has. It doesn't look like something you'd travel for, but it might something for locals to try.

Getting There

It's 1/4 mile south of the Tyngsboro Bridge on Middlesex Rd. It's the first hill after some stores on the right. There's a dirt parking area just before the bend in the road that's right at the base of the hill.

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dragons
MWV, NH
dragons   MWV, NH
Just a couple of things. At this time, you can't see the quarry using Google Streetview, even though you can see the wall from the street when you pull over to the little dirt pull-out. Here's a more accurate location for the dirt pull-out maps.google.com/maps?q=171+…

I only saw two routes which did not look too dangerous. The rest of the wall looked cracked and broken up; too risky for my tastes. I tried one route which was easy and fun. The other one, not in any photos, looked very solid and smooth but also very tough - just a few thin holds and slightly overhung. If you attempt that one you'll probably want a top rope. There are plenty of trees, just make sure they're rooted solidly. May 4, 2014
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
This reminds me a little bit of the quarries off of Ridge Rd / High St just over the MA border from Nashua. I remember in high school going out there with cases of beer, having giant bonfires, and jumping off the 35ft ledge. I walked back out there recently to look at the walls with a climber's eye: the walls are pretty flat, relatively short, and have shitty (or no) stances below. The standing water is a lot grosser than I recall, so I wouldn't want to boulder above it. There's nasty jutting rocks along the edge as well - I'm surprised we never got ourselves into trouble growing up. Apr 23, 2014

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