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Routes in Unknown Pillar

Route A S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route B S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route C T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route D S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route E S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route F S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Description

This tower lies to the west and slightly south of Hillbilly Pillar about 150 yards. The routes (except for route A which is on the east face) are on the North face on some very suspect rock, but does have one excellent route on very good rock.

The entire crag is basically sport bolted, some routes with semi-high first bolts. 6 Quick draws will gain you the summit of every route except for the Crack (Route C) which apparently takes gear. MussyHooks or closed shuts at the top of each route. It is recommened you bring quick draws for the anchors if TR'ing the routes to reduce wear. Assuming this crag ever gets any play.

Getting There

From Pauls Paradise, scramble up either to the right of Hillbilly Pillar and through a small canyon heading north-ish or walk around left of those formations and then cut north 150 yards past Hillbilly Pillar. Very short approach, like 5 minutes.

6 Total Climbs

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
hahaha! Cool! Was it worth it? Dec 6, 2013
Found it and climbed it - thanks to Russ and Susan. We just didn't go far enough or in quite the right direction on previous attempts. Dec 6, 2013
Easiest way to find it is tie two ropes together, clip one end to the first bolt on a Hillbilly Pillar route and then walk toward Whitney or whatever those mountains are. When the rope comes tight, you will probably be at the base of the thing ;)

Too funny Russ - the sarcasm is not lost on me :)
I was just checking back to see if there were any additional posts before we head for the hills. Now I am going to have to go find this thing and do the climbs. I imagine we were looking right at it - or at the wrong side of it - now it's a quest! KC will probably make me go look for it again on my own - I can see her rolling her eyes already. Maybe we'll see you/meet you at the crags one of these days - thanks again for the laugh...sincerely - Colonel Bat Guano

Susan - thanks for all the beta - if i can't find it now i'm going to quit climbing :) Nov 25, 2013
Bruce Willey
Bishop, CA
Bruce Willey   Bishop, CA
Found this pillar completely by accident (from the west) and found it surprisingly satisfying. Did all the routes aside from the Route A which looked absolutely chossy even for this choss queen. Route B is a Alobama Hills classic. Loved it. The pregnant wife even climbed it twice. But it should be noted that the moves getting to first or second bolts are way beyond the easy ratings as described here. Oct 31, 2013
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
This mystery pillar is hardly worth a trip back but for Beta purposes I did just that in my flip-flops. The crag is nearly directly west of Hillbilly Pillar (see compass photo) and probably dead on for Russ' comment of a nine-iron away. The crag is quick and easy to find by staying on the road passing Hillbilly Parking lot on your left and the corridors or whatever that is on your right until you swing around heading south to a dead end parking area. From the parking area, take an established trail east three minutes & presto.... you're at the base! Sep 3, 2013
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
You said you couldn't find it in your first comment and then you referred to climbing it in your second commentt

The disconnect on our back and forth is I posted the route info for the pillar, and then commented on the lack of info about the pillar, hoping someone could ID the thing. It is near impossible to find something you are not looking for, especially since it is not in the guide book. So we were never actually "looking" for it. We happened upon and climbed it, then put the pillar into the MP database, then asked if anyone knew what it was.

Easiest way to find it is tie two ropes together, clip one end to the first bolt on a Hillbilly Pillar route and then walk toward Whitney or whatever those mountains are. When the rope comes tight, you will probably be at the base of the thing ;) Aug 17, 2013
Russ - I agree - finding a crag is an art and all part of the adventure. As far as why we'd be going there - we were just looking for some more mods around that area after doing Yaum and Burnt Penis. You said you couldn't find it in your first comment and then you referred to climbing it in your second comment - hmmmm - you must have been stubborn like me and went back to look again - difference is - you found it! Where is it in relation to say the area between Hillbilly and Burnt Penis?
We aren't scared of choss either - seeing as our main crag is the Pinnacles - see our forum at Mud N Crud.
thanks,
JC Aug 17, 2013
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
Finding a crag is an art. I'll GPS it next time I'm out that way. And Hillbilly Pillar is a full nine iron away from the base of this crag, so the 150 yds. is deadly accurate

The bigger question is why would you go there? The thing is running like 3 shitbombs and one so-so route. Even a seasoned choss king like myself was actually laughing at the bullshit I was climbing on. May 29, 2013
I'm glad someone else posted that they couldn't find this crag. The directions are contradictory - one says north, the other south. We tried both sets of directions and there is nothing there. Burnt Penis is west and north of Hillbilly after an open area. The other pillars behind Paul's have no bolts. We even walked south and east(thinking maybe the directions were backwards) across another open area to a group of formations and found no bolts and no towers that looked like the pic. All the walls (no towers) further west (way more than 150 yards) have crack systems that slant up and left - nothing has cracks that go relatively straight or right as the pic shows. We felt like we were being PUNKED! May 28, 2013
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
We asked around a bit including the GuideBookGuy™™ and nobody knew what this pillar was. Hard to believe, but true. If you have the info on this crag, please update the entry. Dec 2, 2012

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