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Routes in Quandary Ice Crag

Bourbon Beaver T,TR WI2-3 PG13
Trucksicle T,TR WI3- PG13

Description

This ice crag is in the basin below the SW face of Quandary providing a more secluded outing in comparison to the nearby Lincoln Falls crag. Fewer pure ice options exist here than at Lincoln, and don't expect anything over WI3. For beginners, this could be a fun location to practice basic skills and enjoy the mountains. More experienced climbers may find this best as an ice bouldering option or mixed playground to spread use on a busy weekend.

These small cliffs face SE resulting in sun baked ice unless temperatures remain well below freezing during the day. Plenty of water runs through the area though, so multiple beginner to intermediate level flows form. Short (10-15m) mixed lines also look to be worth trying on clean and steep rock. Walk off options are plentiful. Avalanche danger should be minimal in all but the most elevated times, but as always make your own judgment.
Please respect the mining claims in this area. Details

Getting There

A walking trail leads directly to this ice from the Blue Lakes Trailhead, which can remain accessible into the cold months so long as the road stays dry and gates remain open. The approach is around 800 vertical feet and maybe 1 mile. Expect 30 minutes to an hour.

Blue Lakes TH - from Breckenridge, drive 8 miles south on Colorado 9. After sharp corner of Colorado 9, turn west onto the 850 Road (Blue Lakes Road). Follow this for 2 miles west to the trailhead below the dam. There is a large parking area below the dam.

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Taylor-B.
Valdez, AK
Taylor-B.   Valdez, AK
This place is worth a visit if Lincoln Falls is crowded. Thanks for posting this area. Sep 27, 2013

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