La Mussara Rock Climbing
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DescriptionLa Mussara is located at an altitude of 3000 feet on top of a steep hill facing the Mediteranean sea. It offers single and multi-pitch routes, mostly sport but also trad and aid, with route lengths varying from roughly 30 to 300 feet. There are about 500 routes with grades ranging from 5.5 to 5.13d, with a high concentration of excellent routes in the 5.9-5.11 range. The rock is a limestone very similar to that found in Siurana and offers a similar climbing style, although a specificity of La Mussara is cracks. The cliffs are south facing, and tend to be in the sun most of day although some shade can be found.
La Mussara is one of the oldest climbing areas in the region, and perhaps because of this, the gradings that tend to be on the stiff side, or the dubious looking bolts on a few of the routes (generally the less popular ones), it has fallen out of fashion. The benefit of this is that it tends to be a lot less busy than more famous places such as Siurana.
The La Mussara area is divided in several crags. With the exception of Les Airasses and Les Campanilles which are located by the ruins of the La Mussara village, most of the climbing is located just south of the giant TV masts that can be seen from Reus, about 4 miles from the La Mussara village on T-704.
- Tarragona Climbs - Pete O'Donovan and Dani Andrada - Pod Climbing (2012) - ISBN 9780956700612.0000
- Escaladas en Mont-Ral y La Mussara - Luis Alfonso and Xavier Buxó - self-edited (2001) - ISBN 0200334
- A topo might be available from the refugi in La Mussara.
Getting ThereFrom the south/Reus: coming from Tarragona/Barcelona on the T-11, take exit 1 just after Reus toward N-420a. At the roundabout take the 2nd exit onto T-704 following signs for Maspujols/L'Aleixar/Vilaplana. Keep on following T-704 for about 6 miles / 10 km. You should be able to see the TV masts and the Antenes crag just under them for pretty much the entire drive. When you get close to the cliff, you should see sandy parking areas on each side of the road just before a sharp right-turn. Park here for the Antenes or La Isabel areas (if you see a sign for L'Albiol/TV-7046 at a sharp left turn, you have gone about 500 m/0.3 mi too far). Lo Raval and Lo Soterani are a bit further down the dirt road on the right side of the road. Continue for another 4 miles to the La Mussara village for Les Airasses or Les Campanilles.
From the north/Cornudella de Montsant: although not the shortest, the easiest way is probably to take C-242 north toward Ulldemolins for about 4 miles, then take a right onto T-701 toward Prades. In Prades, take a right onto T-704 toward Vilaplana. Follow T-704 to La Mussara for Les Airasses or Les Campanilles. For the other areas, continue on T-704 past the TV masts, and about 500 m/0.3 mi after a sign for L'Albiol/TV-7046 you will see a sharp left-turn followed by the parking on both sides of the road.
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