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DescriptionA direct quote from Jim Thurmond & Joe Reidhead's book Rock Climbs of Johnson Shut-Ins State Park:
"During the climbing season, Johnson Shut-Ins is an excellent place for beginner climbers to get off the ground outdoors. It is an equally excellent crag for the expert who wants to shred tips and get a good pump. Often, more then one route can be climbed using the same top rope. The density of the routes allows beginners and experts to climbs side by side."
Johnson Shut-Ins is Missouri's old school traditional crag. The wall cut out by the Black River offers great possibilities for traditional leads. Much like Vedauwoo or Joshua Tree, Johnson Shut-Ins is a great destination for all.
Note: The permit states this is a top rope crag only, but the potential for great lead climbing exists.
State Park Permit Required Details
Check in with the park office and gain a permit.
Getting ThereFrom Hwy 21, follow Hwy N to the state park entrance, then head to the park office. next, go down stream to the cliffs and find a good warm-up.
The Shut-ins brown, pink, and purple porphyritic rhyolites generally face south, providing plenty of sun during a fall day. Rhyolite deposited over the area as ancient eruptions sent volcanic debris down the mountainous area of the time. Slowly, the landscape again exposed the igneous rock as a result of plate tectonics, general uplift of the Ozark Plateau, and weather.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season