PRINT: Rock Climbing in Stoked Bowl, Golden

Stoked Bowl

Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!

Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31

Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…

Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…

CCC Raptor Nesting Closure 1 (MM 270, W of Tunnel 1). Photo reconfiguration: Ron Keller.

CCC Raptor Nesting Closure 2 (E of Tunnel 2). In 2016, the closure WAS lifted June 9 for ONLY the 2016 season, per Eric Krause, JeffCo OS Ranger. Photo reconfiguration: Ron Keller.

The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.

Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:

Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves

Access Issue: Private Property - be aware & respectful Details

Per Daniel Dunn, Stewardship Manager, Boulder Climbing Community ((803) 443-8822): this crag is on private property. The landowners are aware of the climbing on their property and continue to allow access for rock climbers. It is critical for long term access that everyone who climbs here is respectful and does their part to keep the crag in good shape. For more information on how to be a good steward, check out the Climber's Pact from Access Fund.

Description

This is secluded. It has the same rock as the rest of Clear Creek Canyon. It is best known for the best highline slacklining in the state. There are some new sport climbs going up.

Highlines:
"I'm on TV", 140' long and 100' high.
"Coloradical", [180'] long and 60' high.
"Rad Ass Hoodie", 84' long and 45' high.

Coloradder Than You, 265', just above Coloradical.

Getting There

Expect a 20 minute, steep approach. The trail starts (39.743065N 105.406969W) on the west end of Tunnel 5, cross over the North side of the bridge so you can be on the north side of the river. Hike along the river to the West until you see a small trail leading up the canyon to your right (North). The trail is difficult and not well marked, but there are some cairns along the way. The trail travels over the saddleback of the ridge to the West of the canyon to the next canyon at its top.

Here is the recorded track from Motion-X GPS:

Date: Nov 18, 2012 9:13 am
Distance: 0.27 miles
Elapsed Time: 19:53.0
Avg Speed: 0.8 mph
Min Altitude: 6,903 ft
Max Altitude: 7,366 ft (463 feet gain)
Start Location: 39.743436ºN 105.406820ºW
End Location: 39.742322ºN 105.410231ºW GPS Map: (valid until May 18, 2013)

L>R:

A. Get Stoked, 10, 75', 1p, bolts.

B. Don't Hate, 12+, 80', 1p, bolts.

C. Unknown Roof, 13?, 1p, bolts.

D. Try These Nachos, 9+, 1p, 60', bolts.

E. Hydromania, 13-, 1p, 55', bolts.

F. Free Immersion, 13+, 1p, 50', bolts.

G. Clouds In My Coffee, 13, 1p, 50', bolts.

H. Hateraid, 11-, 1p, 25', bolts.

I. Haters Gunna Hate, 11-, 1p, bolts.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 4 ● Get Stoked Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 6 ● Don't Hate Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 3 ● Try These Nachos Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 8 ● Hydromania Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a 2 ● Free Immersion Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c 4 ● Clouds In My Coffee Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 6 ● Hateraid Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 4 ● Haters Gunna Hate Sport

● Get Stoked

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport

● Don't Hate

5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport

● Try These Nachos

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport

● Hydromania

5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport

● Free Immersion

5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport

● Clouds In My Coffee

5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport

● Hateraid

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport

● Haters Gunna Hate

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The bowl from below.

Scott Turpin inspecting "I'm on TV". We had 3 highlines up this day, all at the same time.

Jeremy Hasty gets his first Full Man. In fact, he did it twice there and back on this day.<br>
<br>
This line is 84 feet and sits about 30-40 feet above the sloped canyon.

Jeremy Hasty gets his first Full Man. In fact, he did it twice there and back on this day. This line is 84 feet and sits about 30-40 feet above the sloped canyon.

This is a good photo of "Rad Ass Hoodie" the line. 20 feet to the left of the anchors in this photo is a new sport climb, 5.9+.

Setting up Rad Ass Hoodie.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Darren Mabe

This looks like the amphitheater of sorts that is up and behind the Creekside/Solid Gold area, and it is a cool spot to hang out. When I explored up there, I definitely noted good potential for new routes. Short, steep ones above the sun deck and some longer moderate ones that you pass as you traverse into this 'stoked bowl'.

The approach listed above is good, and what I eventually descended with, as I would NOT recommend the more direct gully approach from below (likely the same approach Richard took when he set up Solid Gold).

Those highlines look wild!! Nov 20, 2012

TheHut

What are people's thoughts on adding an area that has been primarily developed for high lining? Obviously, the couple routes going in up there are climbing, but would anyone like more beta on the lines, or is this best left off of this site?

Intelligent comments appreciated. Dec 19, 2012

Monty
Golden, CO

I'm all about it. Thanks for the info! Dec 20, 2012

Hank C
Howard, CO

Coloradical is listed here as 100' when it is 180'. It was previously the longest highline in Colorado. In Fall 2013, Mickey Wilson bolted and did the first sends on Coloradder Than You 265' just above Coloradical. Jan 27, 2014

TheHut

If it's going to be posted, it might as well be correct....
Video is for name reference.

Rad Ass Hoodie, '87 (laser), established by: Scott Turpin and Dylan Buffington, FA: Scott Turpin.

Sweet Sun, '100 (laser), established by: Scott Turpin and Dylan Buffington, FA: Dylan Buffington.

Chest Bump with a Broken Sternum, 133' (laser), established by Scott Turpin and Josh Beaudoin, FA: Scott Turpin.

The Dangers of Being Stoked, 140' (laser), established by Scott Turpin and Josh Beaudoin, FA: Scott Turpin.

I'm on T.V!, 126' (laser), established by Scott Turpin, FA: Scott Turpin.

I'm Stoked Right Now!, 149' (laser), established by Scott Turpin, FA: Scott Turpin.

The Life of Ty Lundgren, 104' (laser), established by Scott Turpin, FA: Scott Turpin.

Fu*kingYESFu*kingYESFu*kingYES, ~50'x3, Tri-line (approx.), established by Scott Turpin, Jeremy Hasty, Seth Brown.

Coloradical, '191 (laser), established by Scott Turpin, Emily Sukienik, Mickey Wilson, Quinn Carrasco, Buck Crockett, FA: Mickey Wilson.

Stoked on Gold, ~'93 (approx.), established by Josh Beaudoin and Posse, FA: David Stallman.

CTU ~??, established by Mickey Wilson and ?, FA: Mickey Wilson.

Many people have been part of these adventures and helped to keep the Stoke High! Much thanks to them.
youtube.com/watch?v=QgXObaM…. Jul 18, 2014