Elevation: 8,463 ft
GPS: 5.096, -73.792 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,159 total · 16/month
Shared By: Juan Urrego on Nov 1, 2012 with updates from Jean Spencer
Admins: Tony Yeary
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Description

It`s the longest route in Suesca, 4 pitches, all trad! it will take most of the day to climb it so be prepare!

L.P. is located at one of the farthest crags on the train tracks. There are no rap rings, so you must walk off the top.

P1-Start up a left facing dihedral in a 5.8 crack, and build your first belay just under the giant roof on a big ledge with loose rock.

P2- From there, traverse right to gain a crack over the roof and continue up.

P3- Start by shimmying off a diving board-like feature and make a bouldery move to get off the ledge. A #4 Cam works well here. Build a belay at a ledge with a tree.

P4- Classic Suesca, a little runout, but super easy climbing to the top. Follow the obvious left facing corner.

Getting There

Is in the last climbing sector in the cliff heading north.

3 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Zona de LP

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 15
LP (details)
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
LP (details)
 15
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad 4 pitches
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Gunkswest   CA
LP is a must-do route that is reminiscent of climbing at the Gunks in New York. The route wanders through intimidating terrain at a surprisingly moderate grade.

The crux corner is as difficult as Double Cross at Joshua Tree (what many folks call 5.8).

The climb is located at the far left (away from town) end of the Suesca cliff. Walk along the tracks for about 25 minutes, looking for a clean, steep slab and arĂȘte right on the edge of the railroad tracks. This steep, clean and arĂȘte has a couple of sparsely bolted routes. LP starts in a shallow, left-facing corner that forms the right margin of this steep, clean face.

Carry gear to at least a blue Camalot (doubles of red, gold and blue Camalots useful; some will be very happy to have a large purple Camalot) and a bunch of shoulder length slings.

Depending on the skills of your follower and your rope drag, you might need to break this up into as many as five or six pitches.

The "LP Details" author dismisses the PG gear rating, but uses terms like "heady" and "very exposed." I think what both of the descriptions are trying to say is that while rated 5.7, LP is not a route your average 5.7 leader should venture onto lightly. It's a 5.7 for a 5.9 leader. Dec 27, 2016