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Routes in The Battery Cliff

Supercharged T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Elevation: 23 ft
GPS: 51.172, -4.68 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 230 total · 4/month
Shared By: Crimper E6 on Oct 30, 2012
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell
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Description

A steep, south-facing wall situated directly below the south side of the ridge containing the Baftery and on the north side of the large, open gully that terminates Landing Craft Bay.
Apart from some crumbliness at the far right-hand end of the cliff, the climbing is on good clean rock, the majority of the routes following powerful crack and groove lines. Low-to-mid-tide access depending on the chosen route.

Getting There

From the Baftery, descend in a south-westerly direction over broken ground to a point some 25 metres above the sea. A short abseil from good block belays leads to boulders at the base of the cliff. The right-hand side of the cliff is barely tidal, whilst the central area is accessible for two hours either side of low tide. The left-hand side requires an extremely low tide. An alternative but potentially more hazardous approach is to descend the large open gully to the south of the Baftery.

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Nick Russell
Bristol, UK
Nick Russell   Bristol, UK  
The scramble down the South side (referred to in the 2008 guide as the "easy way down") is not all that bad. It doesn't descend the gully, rather staying on the northerly spur, just skirting the top of the cliff. Downclimbing and traversing of about 5.4 standard is necessary but only in short steps. This approach allows access to all climbs on the South side of the Battery Cliff at most states of the tide (depending on the swell). Sep 25, 2013

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