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Routes in St Patrick's Buttress

Destiny T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shamrock T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
rampart T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
second coming T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Shared By: Crimper E6 on Oct 30, 2012
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell
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Description

This major cliff dominates the north side of Landing Craft Boy. The. There are two main faces divided centrally by a long, open-book corner. The block-streaked southern face is smooth and open and provides a wealth of quality climbing. North of the long corner the cliff swings round to the west and is pierced by a number of impressive, overhanging groove and crocklines: the Wall of Grooves. To the north is a south-facing, diamond-shaped wall: Matt Block Wall.

The cliff is tidal in the vicinity of the central corner, routes on its flanks are generally unaffected if the appropriate abseil point is chosen or the first pitches omitted. The whole cliff becomes accessible below mid tide.

Getting There

At plateau level and approximately 500 metres north of the Old Light and 150 metres south of the Battery descent path is a prominent Iorge outcrop. Descend the fern-covered slopes below the outcrop to reach a cluster of Iorge boulders lining the rim of the cliff-top; from here a 60-metre abseil leads down the south face to the foot of the cliff. A time-consuming, low-tide boulder-hop can also be mode from the foot of First Buttress North.

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