PRINT: Rock Climbing in The Ranch Hand, South Platte

The Ranch Hand

Colorado > S Platte > Staunton SP > Staunton Rocks

Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.

- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall

Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.

Seasonal Falcon closures in effect from March 15 - July 31. - Lion's Head (not pictured). - Roughneck Area. There are no closures at Staunton Rocks.

Description

The Ranch Hand offers featured granite following incipient cracks for two to three pitches of climbing. The descent is via a moderate downclimb and walk-off on the north side of the formation.

Getting There

Follow the Climber Access trail as described on the Staunton Rocks page. From the Meadow Dome, head west. Go past the Bombardier Dome and the Whistle Pig, and look for the obvious large dome on your right (signed "Ranch Hand Climbing").

Per Bill Lawry: the descent is via a moderate downclimb and then a nice path down the north side (i.e., the skier's left side) of the formation.

Routes from Left to Right

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 1 ● Tamale Kisses Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R 1 ● Corn Bread Trad 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c 29 ● Biscuits 'n' Gravy Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 3 ● Lonesome Dove, Angry Falcon Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 7 ● Lasso The Longhorn Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 6 ● Marmot Man Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 13 ● Waiting for the Summer Rain Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 17 ● Shimmy Shimmy Strut Strut Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 19 ● A Face in the Crowd Sport

● Tamale Kisses

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad

● Corn Bread

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad 2 pitches

● Biscuits 'n' Gravy

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 3 pitches

● Lonesome Dove, Angry Falcon

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 2 pitches

● Lasso The Longhorn

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad 2 pitches

● Marmot Man

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad

● Waiting for the Summer Rain

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport

● Shimmy Shimmy Strut Strut

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport

● A Face in the Crowd

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Staunton Rocks.

The Ranch Hand from the top of Bombardier Dome.

Ranch Hand signage. The start of Biscuits 'n' Gravy is nearby, just out of view.

The Ranch Hand on the left, The Back 40 on the right.

Summit of The Ranch Hand looking SE. The Dungeon is the large wall in the middle of the picture. Pike's Peak is partially obscured by rain in the upper right.

This is the slightly exposed walk off for the Ranch Hand. Hand and footholds are abundant. 4th class.

The Ranch Hand on the right, Park View Dome on the left.