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Routes in East Buttress

Blister in the Sun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chasing the Sun T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Voltage T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Men in Bright Lycra T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Out of the Forest T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shisha T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shoot to Thrill (PROJECT) TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
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GPS: 43.973, -71.216 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: chinos on Oct 1, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
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Description

The East Buttress of White Ledge is located high up and right of the main face and separated from it by a rubble filled gully and small blocky walls. This crag has a wonderful view and is sunny and warm late into the day. As with its neighbor, White Ledge, previous climbers have explored here but not recorded their climbs. A very strange old quarter inch bolt (circa 1970’s?) was found a few feet from a good crack on the left side of the face with no indication of where (or if) the climb went from there.

The face is between 150’ and 180’ high from the wooded belay ledges but can be rappelled with single 60m rope. Rappel from a large Pine at the top, 50’ to a small 6” diameter spruce tree in the center of the face, then to the ground.

Getting There

To get to the bottom of this south facing crag is a logistical problem. If approaching from the bottom follow the directions to White Ledge. When at the house sized boulder head East/right along the terminus of the talus until you are heading uphill to the wooded shoulder. If you head uphill right away you will run into quite a number of small scrubby sometimes overhanging walls and dirty slabs that will block access to the bottom of the face. Hike left, (uphill) on the shoulder and pick a wooded ledge system near the cliffs bottom and traverse in to belay trees at the base. If approaching this way add an additional half hour and a bit of thrashing to your schedule.

The easiest way might be to hike to the top via the loop trail over the summit and rappel down but this takes a bit of the mountaineering adventure out of it (if you like that sort of thing).

Another option from the top is to walk down the gully that splits the East Buttress and White Ledge. With a bit of thrashing around the base of the cliff is easily found.

If hiking off from the top head back NW 400’ feet or so and you will soon cross the hiking trail. You can turn either way on the loop but it is shorter to head uphill (left) over the summit and south back to the campground.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at East Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
Blister in the Sun
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Blister in the Sun
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
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