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Routes in Greensprings

Full Marge S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Marge's Navel S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mexican Summer S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Razor Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Six Cheetahs S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sky Patrol T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
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Elevation: 4,555 ft
GPS: 42.128, -122.488 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 4,939 total · 67/month
Shared By: Katie.Bradley87 on Sep 22, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick
Getting weather forecast...

Description

Easy access once you are there.

Getting There

Take Greensprings Hwy (66) past Emigrant Lake 14.8 miles to Tyler Creek Road on the right. Follow Tyler Creek down a hill ~.25 miles, to pullout on right side. Trail will be on the left.
Approach is short, but steep with loose gravel.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Greensprings

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
Marge's Navel
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 6
Razor Crack
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 3
Sky Patrol
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
Six Cheetahs
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
Full Marge
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Marge's Navel
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Razor Crack
 6
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Sky Patrol
 3
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad
Six Cheetahs
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Full Marge
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Greensprings »

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Joshua Jones
San Tan Valley, az
Joshua Jones   San Tan Valley, az
Great climbing on polished granite. There are a lot of sport routes out here. For a more complete guide check out Greg Orton's guide book for the Rogue - excellent resource for Southern Oregon climbers. Apr 7, 2013
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
I don't mean to be rude or unkind, but the rock at Greensprings is neither granite nor glacially polished. Orton's guide describes it as columnar basalt. I would agree that it is extrusive, but not basalt. The rock is very light colored for basalt, closer to rhyolite.

And, I agree with Joshua's main point; that there are a few cracks at Greensprings that provide some of Ashland's best training for slippery Yosemite cracks. Apr 27, 2013
Greesprings is columnar basalt. Bummed that the lovely 5.11c "Boys Who 'Aint French" isn't on here! (How do you add routes?) Feb 8, 2015
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
Emailed you about how to add routes. Feb 8, 2015
Scott Becker
Medford, OR
Scott Becker   Medford, OR
Nice description (good reason to buy the guidebook, I guess). This is a good summertime crag as long as you get there early and finish up by noon (faces west). Seeps pretty late into the spring if it's wet.
It's also worth noting that this crag is on private property. The land owners are cool about people climbing here but it still pays to be respectful. Jun 20, 2016
Zach Davis
Talent, Oregon
Zach Davis   Talent, Oregon
I love this place. Hairway to Stheven , on the most exposed buttress, is a lovely reward after an early crux that is more confusing than hard. Often you have the place to yourself.
Sep 5, 2016
GPS location is inaccurate. I went there last weekend and was unable to find the place. Could someone update the coordinates and/or update the directions.
Thanks. Feb 6, 2017
gso Orton
Roseburg, OR
gso Orton   Roseburg, OR
Fun discussion!
I had to go back to the 2001 SW OR Guide to find Greensprings described as basalt.
This guide was since updated in 2005.
I was working with Jerry Messenger & Jim Davis (geologist & climber) on the Rogue update before he died.
If you have the 2005 Rogue guide refer to the geology discussion on page xxxi and you'll see that Jim described Greensprings as
fine-grained hornblende granodiorite that most likely formed as a shallow intrusive so Josh was close. Jim also felt that both Greensprings and Emigrant may have been altered through faulting.
An aside, if you haven't been to the top of Pilot Rock it is well worth your time. Pilot is described as a shallow intrusive volcanic plug with huge prismatic columns of dacite containing hornblende and calcite crystals.
Another note for Greensprings is make sure your 2005 guide has the correction stickers for topos A, B, & D on pages 90, 91, and 93.
All the guides bought at Ashland Outdoor Store will have these stickers in them.
If you have a guide without stickers let me know and I can bring some to the next SWOCC meeting.
greg May 3, 2018

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