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Routes in Potter's Point

Beef Summer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Beefmaster 3000 TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Caveman S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Explosive Meatloaf TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ms. T S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Omega Glory S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Operation Crumb Weasel S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pretzel Logic S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Speefnarkle.com S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Elevation: 3,614 ft
GPS: 34.486, -119.694 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 4,516 total, 71/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Sep 11, 2012
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

Some short moderate sport climbs and topropes in a beautiful pine forest setting with panoramic views of the Pacific Ocean, the Channel Islands, Santa Barbara and Goleta. The rock is of decent quality (per SB), and generally contains a bit of lichen due to the lack of traffic.

The fantastic Caveman Boulder, with ***/**** sport routes from 5.11 to 5.13 is also located in this area, and is a must-visit spot for the "hard" sportster.

Getting There

Driving up Gibraltar Rd from town, take a left at the Gibraltar Road/Camino Cielo "T" and park in a turnout on the left side of the road. Walk back DOWN Gibraltar Road about 100 feet, then take a trail up and to your right. The trail is actually in pretty good condition. Once you climb the small peak and enter a boulder field overlook, use the attached photo to figure out where the climbs are located. The trail continues into the boulderfield, but don't expect much of a trail to or between the individual routes. Some minor bushwhacking will ensue.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Potter's Point

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Operation Crumb Weasel
Sport, TR
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Caveman
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Omega Glory
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Operation Crumb Weasel 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Caveman 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Omega Glory 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
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Photos

Ash2Ash  
Trail becomes vague and hard to follow after the first hill. Stay to the top in large boulder field where there is actually a trail and I highly recommend wearing pants and good footwear. Dead and very abrasive manzanita trees populate the base of these rocks making getting around very difficult. Jul 8, 2013
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Good call, Richard. I'm not really sure how Caveman ended up in the bouldering pages. Thanks for clearing things up. Anyways, here's the skinny:

For the Caveman boulder, approach via main trail, and when you gain the bouldering area (15-20 minute hike) keep heading downhill and to the left. You will see a very large south-facing boulder/prow fronted by some pine trees. All the routes are on the ocean side of things. Sep 11, 2012
The Caveman Boulder's sport climbs also belong on this page, but alas, some poor misguided soul decided to hide them within the dark depths of the Potter's Point Bouldering page...

Admins (Andy/Mike)?? Maybe we can fix this? Sep 11, 2012

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