Elevation: 3,358 ft
GPS: 35.162, -114.328 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 22,976 total · 248/month
Shared By: Sam Elander on Aug 25, 2012 with improvements by Emmanuel Lacoste and 1 other
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

Description

Sunny mornings, shady afternoons. You can chase the shade. The rock is easy on the hands, with nice pockets and edges.

Routes range from 5.7 to 5.12, mostly sport 40 to 90ft. About 40 routes total. The walls in order; Dall Wall, Prow, Snake, Eastern Block

Getting There

Approach 1: From highway 68, between Kingman and Bullhead City: Head South on Egar Rd, then turn right on Tapeats until it terminates at Guthrie, then right on Guthrie. Park on the west side of the road at a wilderness area sign.

Hike southwest on an old road (~0.4 miles) to meet the approach trail which will be on the right atop the saddle. This trail heads generally west and switches-back up the hill (~.25). The approach trail forks near the cliff, going right will take you to Eastern Block, and left will take you to Snake Flake, Prow Area, and then Dall Wall. There are a variety of Burro trails meandering the area, so get your bearings.
The land on the east side of Guthrie road is private, so please be respectful of residents.

 

Approach 2: (Parking area pictured above) Same as approach 1, but go past Tapeats rd to the next street (Shinarump rd.). Turn right onto Shinarump and at the end of the road turn right onto Guthrie rd. Drive straight and park in the vacant lot with the yellow dead-end sign pointing to it. (on the right). Once parked, walk past the white gate (on the BLM side of the road) and to the end of the drive. Then turn left at the rock cairn and green cacti. Follow the trail towards the obvious cliffs, cross the old road and continue straight up with switchbacks. (Follow the cairns and steps all the way up).

The crag is the prominent lower cliff band to the southwest of the parking area and is on BLM land.

Approach 3*: [This approach will put you at Siberia area]. Park at the corner of Gleeson Rd. and Unkar Dr. next to an old campfire pit and some BLM boundary markers. (You likely will need a vehicle with a little clearance to get here. Or be a bit careful/crafty with low clearance vehicles.

Once parked, head not straight to the big caves ~12 min, but head diagonally left towards the black-streaked cliffs. (~12-15min) Use burro trails when possible.

54 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Black Mountains - Golden Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
First Time Out
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Take Two
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Hammered
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
And Call me in the Morning
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
Black Russian
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
The Big Easy
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Le Mule
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Giant Step
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Terror Down that Wall
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Brandenburg Gate
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Sorry we Bosched it
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 3
The Penguin
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
Not Royal’s Problem
Sport, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
Cox's Climax
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Farfegnugen
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
First Time Out Snake Flake
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Take Two Dall Wall
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Hammered Prow Area
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
And Call me in the Morning Dall Wall
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Black Russian Eastern Block
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Big Easy Dall Wall
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Le Mule Prow Area
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Giant Step Dall Wall
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Terror Down that Wall Eastern Block
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Brandenburg Gate Eastern Block
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Sorry we Bosched it Dall Wall
 4
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Penguin Snake Flake
 3
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Not Royal’s Problem Prow Area
 3
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, TR
Cox's Climax Eastern Block
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Farfegnugen Prow Area
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
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