Elevation: 3,358 ft
GPS: 35.162, -114.328 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 35,407 total · 337/month
Shared By: Sam Elander on Aug 25, 2012 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

Description

Sunny mornings, shady afternoons. You can chase the shade. The rock is easy on the hands, with nice pockets and edges.

Routes range from 5.7 to 5.12, mostly sport 40 to 90ft. About 40 routes total. The walls in order; Dall Wall, Prow, Snake, Eastern Block

Getting There

Approach 1: From highway 68, between Kingman and Bullhead City: Head South on Egar Rd, then turn right on Tapeats until it terminates at Guthrie, then right on Guthrie. Park on the west side of the road at a wilderness area sign.

Hike southwest on an old road (~0.4 miles) to meet the approach trail which will be on the right atop the saddle. This trail heads generally west and switches-back up the hill (~.25). The approach trail forks near the cliff, going right will take you to Eastern Block, and left will take you to Snake Flake, Prow Area, and then Dall Wall. There are a variety of Burro trails meandering the area, so get your bearings.
The land on the east side of Guthrie road is private, so please be respectful of residents.

 

Approach 2 (recommended): (Parking area pictured above) Same as approach 1, but go past Tapeats rd to the next street (Shinarump rd.). Turn right onto Shinarump and at the end of the road turn right onto Guthrie rd. Drive straight and park in the vacant lot with the yellow dead-end sign pointing to it. (on the right). Once parked, walk past the white gate (on the BLM side of the road) and to the end of the drive. Then turn left at the rock cairn and green cacti. Follow the trail towards the obvious cliffs, cross the old road and continue straight up with switchbacks. (Follow the cairns and steps all the way up).

The crag is the prominent lower cliff band to the southwest of the parking area and is on BLM land.

Approach 3 (specific area): [This approach will put you at Siberia area]. Park at the corner of Gleeson Rd. and Unkar Dr. next to an old campfire pit and some BLM boundary markers. (You likely will need a vehicle with a little clearance to get here. Or be a bit careful/crafty with low clearance vehicles.

Once parked, head not straight to the big caves ~12 min, but head diagonally left towards the black-streaked cliffs. (~12-15min) Use burro trails when possible.

55 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Black Mountains - Golden Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
BLM Bill
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Two Party System
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 9
And Call me in the Morning
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 10
Black Russian
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
The Big Easy
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
Le Mule
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 8
Brandenburg Gate
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Terror Down that Wall
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Pockets to Prague
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Not Royal’s Problem
Sport, TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 3
The Penguin
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
Sorry we Bosched it
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
Cox's Climax
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
In like Zen
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
Farfegnugen
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
BLM Bill Prow Area
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Two Party System Eastern Block
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
And Call me in the Morning Dall Wall
 9
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Black Russian Eastern Block
 10
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Big Easy Dall Wall
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Le Mule Prow Area
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Brandenburg Gate Eastern Block
 8
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Terror Down that Wall Eastern Block
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Pockets to Prague Eastern Block
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Not Royal’s Problem Prow Area
 4
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
The Penguin Snake Flake
 3
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Sorry we Bosched it Dall Wall
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Cox's Climax Eastern Block
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
In like Zen Dall Wall
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Farfegnugen Prow Area
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Black Mountains - Golden Valley »

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