Elevation: 10,060 ft
GPS: 39.539, -106.136 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 14,028 total · 132/month
Shared By: Mike Bannister on Aug 16, 2012 · Updates
Admins: Joey Chicharrones, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description

This recently established sport area is a great addition to the Summit County climbing scene. The rock is generally solid, the moves are fun, and the bolting is pretty intelligent. The crag is not over-bolted. The NW-facing cliff is shady. The generally solid, "granite-ish" rock is somewhat slabby with a few roof bands adding excitement to most of the routes. Most of the climbing is on small flakes and blocks that protrude from the underlying rock. Some of these blocks especially in the roof bands are not securely attached, and testing your holds is recommended. I have managed to pull small rocks and flakes off of most of the routes on the cliff. This should clean up with time and traffic, but as of August 2012, belaying out of the line of fire and a helmet for the belayer are good ideas. For the most part, the rock is solid and fun to climb on but testing holds is highly recommended (especially in the roof bands). As the routes are newer and the wall somewhat less than vertical, a brush is a good addition to the rack.

FAs on all routes are Will Scott, Ben Butler, and Josh Carey.

Getting There

Take I-70 to the Officer's Gulch exit between Copper and Frisco. Drive to the east side of the highway, cross 10 Mile Creek and park by the gate. On the other side of the bike path is a circular, natural gas sign. Count this as zero and begin walking north east towards Frisco. Beware tourists on rental bikes and some crazy long boarders. At the second Gas sign (about 500'), a small cairn marks a trail on the right (there is a wooden sign that says "Monroe").  

Follow the aerobic trail uphill for about 15 minutes keeping an eye out on the right for a cliff with visible bolt hangers.  Follow the homemade dirt steps up to the base of Dealer's Choice.

Near the mid-point of the ascent, an avalanche from 2019 makes it hard to follow the trail for 30'.

L->R:

A. Once Bitten, 10, 1p, 40', bolts.
B. Twice Shy, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
C. Godzilla, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
D. Dealer's Choice Left, 9+, 1p, 70', bolts.
E. Dealer's Choice Right, 9+, 1p, 70', bolts.
F. Das Krankenhaus, 11-, 1p, 70', bolts.
G. Paranoid, 10, 1p, 70', bolts.
H. Chicken Spider, 9, 1p, 70', bolts.
I. Boomerang, 9+, 1p, 65', bolts.

9 Total Climbs

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Location: Halfway Rock Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Halfway Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 21
Dealer's Choice Left
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 19
Dealer's Choice Right
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 16
Boomerang
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 20
Paranoid
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 23
Once Bitten
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 22
Twice Shy
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 18
Das Krankenhaus
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 14
Godzilla
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dealer's Choice Left
 21
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Dealer's Choice Right
 19
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Boomerang
 16
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Paranoid
 20
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Once Bitten
 23
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Twice Shy
 22
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Das Krankenhaus
 18
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Godzilla
 14
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Halfway Rock »

Sun & Shade

Routes Mostly Face: Northwest
Sunny Roughly 2pm to 8pm during high season
6am
8pm
Details: Shady until mid-afternoon.

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