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Routes in Halfway Rock

Boomerang S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chicken Spider S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Das Krankenhaus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dealer's Choice Left S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dealer's Choice Right S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Godzilla S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Once Bitten S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Paranoid S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Twice Shy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Elevation: 10,060 ft
GPS: 39.539, -106.136 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 5,413 total, 83/month
Shared By: Mike Bannister on Aug 16, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

This recently established sport area is a great addition to the Summit County climbing scene. The rock is generally solid, the moves are fun, and the bolting is pretty intelligent. The crag is not over-bolted. The NW-facing cliff is shady. The generally solid, "granite-ish" rock is somewhat slabby with a few roof bands adding excitement to most of the routes. Most of the climbing is on small flakes and blocks that protrude from the underlying rock. Some of these blocks especially in the roof bands are not securely attached, and testing your holds is recommended. I have managed to pull small rocks and flakes off of most of the routes on the cliff. This should clean up with time and traffic, but as of August 2012, belaying out of the line of fire and a helmet for the belayer are good ideas. For the most part, the rock is solid and fun to climb on but testing holds is highly recommended (especially in the roof bands). As the routes are newer and the wall somewhat less than vertical, a brush is a good addition to the rack.

FAs on all routes are Will Scott, Ben Butler, and Josh Carey.

Getting There

Take I-70 to the Officer's Gulch exit between Copper and Frisco. Drive to the east side of the highway, cross 10 Mile Creek and park by the gate. On the other side of the bike path is a circular, natural gas sign. Count this as zero and begin walking north east towards Frisco. Beware tourists on rental bikes and some crazy long boarders. At the second Gas sign (about 500'), a small cairn marks a trail on the right. Follow the aerobic trail uphill for about 15 minutes keeping an eye out on the right for a cliff with visible bolt hangers. Follow the homemade dirt steps up to the base of Dealer's Choice.

L->R:

A. Once Bitten, 10, 1p, 40', bolts.
B. Twice Shy, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
C. Godzilla, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
D. Dealer's Choice Left, 9+, 1p, 70', bolts.
E. Dealer's Choice Right, 9+, 1p, 70', bolts.
F. Das Krankenhaus, 11-, 1p, 70', bolts.
G. Paranoid, 10, 1p, 70', bolts.
H. Chicken Spider, 9, 1p, 70', bolts.
I. Boomerang, 9+, 1p, 65', bolts.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Halfway Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chicken Spider
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Paranoid
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Godzilla
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Chicken Spider 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Paranoid 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Godzilla 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Halfway Rock »

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Photos

Le Bob
Lakewood,CO
Le Bob   Lakewood,CO
Nice rock! Don't forget to look for the wall on that beautiful hike or you might have to take a longer trail up and over it and rap down like we did. If you see a waterfall, you've gone too far. Sep 10, 2017
As of Sun. May 28th, 2017, all of he routes are dry but the two 10s on the left. The landings are muddy or covered in snow still though, just bring a tarp and you'll be fine. May 29, 2017
As of July 2013, the routes have cleaned up nicely. There are still some a few questionable blocks in the roof bands. Jul 4, 2013

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