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The Urban Alpine Crag

Colorado > Morrison/Evergreen/Li…

Description

Urban? Alpine? This diminutive wall in Deer Creek Canyon has a uniquely North Face feel only seconds from a busy road. Urban – well-bolted, moderate, sport routes with interesting and cerebral climbing on fairly solid gneiss/schist with a Clear Creek feel and a 45 second approach. Alpine – said approach is horrendously loose and steep; lichen, moss, dirt, and a bad weather magnet give a distinctly un-sport crag appeal. Add in some rattlesnakes, unstable ground, and aggressive vegetation and you have the making of an adventure within sight of DTC. This little fin of rock will give you your money’s worth with some tenuous, inobvious climbing, and “thinky” routes. All the routes are short and as mentioned, very well-bolted. This is a great little crag for those after work burns on the Southwest side of the Metro.

Due to the nature of the rock and difficulty of getting above, most routes are not top-rope friendly with the exception of K2 and Morin a Minute. Plan on leading. All the routes can be easily done with a 60 meter rope. The very friendly nature of the bolt spacing makes these excellent first time leads at the grade. The starts are usually the most difficult section of the routes, and although the climbing can be tenuous, the rock is very well featured. Since this is a new crag, it still is being cleaned, and there are little pockets of loose rock. It is best to protect the belayer here. It is North-facing and shady even in the high summer.

Getting There

Deer Creek Canyon is far south and west in the Denver Metro. Make your way to the intersection of C-470 and Kipling Parkway in Littleton. Heading south from this intersection, make the first right turn onto W. Ute Ave. (heading west). Pass the Johns Manville plant and Xcel energy, round a couple of sharp turns and head into the Canyon proper. Set your odometer at the electric substation at the mouth of the Canyon.

From the substation, go exactly 3.0 miles up the windy Deer Creek Canyon Road keeping an eye out for the Canyon’s namesake. On the right (north) side of the road, you'll see a graffitied garage. The parking pullout is on the opposite (south) side of the road. Hang a dangerous u-turn here or head up the road further and turn around at a safer spot and come back. The crag is a couple hundred feet to the west (up-canyon) of the pullout. Cross the road and head straight up to the base.

EDIT: the graffitied garage is no more.

There is a nice pullout on the side of the road where the trail starts, about 50 or less down the road from the trail.

L->R:

A. Gneiss Lee Done, 10, 1p, bolts.
B. Mike in the Fast Lane, 9+, 1p, bolts.
C. Hasbeen Done, 10-, 1p, bolts.
D. Morin a Minute, 10-, 1p, bolts or TR.
E. Roach Clip, 9, 1p, bolts.
F. K2 (Kerry Kell's Route), 7, 1p, TR.

Routes from Left to Right

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mike.
[Hide Photo] Mike.
Crag from Deer Creek Canyon Road.
[Hide Photo] Crag from Deer Creek Canyon Road.
Right side routes.
[Hide Photo] Right side routes.
Alpine style TRS at Urban Alpine Crag.
[Hide Photo] Alpine style TRS at Urban Alpine Crag.
Rattlesnake at the base of the bolted routes...heads up!
[Hide Photo] Rattlesnake at the base of the bolted routes...heads up!
I think I'm on MFL?
[Hide Photo] I think I'm on MFL?
Local wildlife.
[Hide Photo] Local wildlife.
That's Locker and the crag.
[Hide Photo] That's Locker and the crag.
Left side routes.
[Hide Photo] Left side routes.
Crag from the road.
[Hide Photo] Crag from the road.
Lee above Hasbeen.  Mike above Morin a Minute.
[Hide Photo] Lee above Hasbeen. Mike above Morin a Minute.
Nick on the sharp end of Hasbeen.
[Hide Photo] Nick on the sharp end of Hasbeen.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
[Hide Comment] Super fun half day of climbing! Thanks for putting in the work everyone. Aug 16, 2012
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
[Hide Comment] Nice addition, Lee/Mike/Mike et. al.! I've driven/ridden by this cliff countless times and thought it would make for a nice little crag.

Watch out for road bikes on the approach! Aug 20, 2012
[Hide Comment] Thanks, Mono. It is perfect for moderates after work. You are correct about the road bikes -- Tom Hanson was crossing the road and almost got T-boned by some Lance wanna-be going mach 9! Aug 22, 2012
Matt Pierce
Poncha Springs, CO
[Hide Comment] We had this place to ourselves this morning. This is a really fun crag close to town. If you like very well bolted moderates, this is a good place. The approach is short and only a bit gnarly coming off the road. Belay stances aren't ideal. Nice work by those that put up the routes - thanks! Oh - and we were in the shade all day.... Sep 16, 2012
Mike Lane
AnCapistan
[Hide Comment] Here in the early days of this crag, the routes can't get enough brushing. Feel free to pitch in on some. Blow tubes work surprisingly well too. Meantime, we'll keep working at it. It wouldn't hurt either to take a few minutes and help re-arrange the abundant flat stones into steps and landings. This is a work in progress. Sep 17, 2012
[Hide Comment] If you have a group of people and you want to set up TRs, you can use one 60m rope to set up 2 routes in most cases; i.e. K2 and Roach Clip, MITFL and GLD, etc. Disclaimer: Please only do this if you know what you are doing. Remember, these routes must be led first to set up TRs. Oct 17, 2012
Jay Eggleston
Denver
[Hide Comment] The only parking I saw was on the right side of the road shortly after the crag. Nov 6, 2012
[Hide Comment] There is a small pullout on the right just after the crag, but the best option is the pullout opposite the Graffiti garage. It is bigger and shadier in the summer, plus you can see your car from the crag. Nov 26, 2012
[Hide Comment] I found a sling above K2. Any takers? Nov 26, 2012
ErikaNW
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] Super fun crag - thanks, Lee, for the tour! You guys have done an amazing job here - small crag, but every line is good quality. False advertising on that approach though... took me way longer than 45 seconds! Dec 1, 2012
teece303
Highlands Ranch, CO
[Hide Comment] This is a great little cliff. I've now climbed all 6 lines, and they are all high quality. Typical gneiss climbing: highly featured, but often with holds pointing slightly the wrong way. Good stuff, super short approach (but steep).

The lines are very generously bolted, which I really appreciate on a highly featured slab. Nobody likes to cheese grater down that stuff.

Be careful leaving: I often flip a u-turn, but visibility is limited.

Note: this crag never sees sun. We went there on a beautiful day in early April (65 degrees, no clouds). It was chilly at the base of this crag, there was about 8 inches of snow still, and the rock was FREEZING. So cold that I backed off of one route because of the pain/numbness in my fingers.

So save it for the warmer days. Apr 30, 2013
Jon Banks
Longmont, CO
[Hide Comment] Really fun crag close to town and in the shade. All the routes are so generously bolted that I nearly Z-clipped a few times and also found myself skipping bolts without realizing it. The only thing "alpine" about this crag is the lichen. Other than that it's super plush. Aug 5, 2014
[Hide Comment] This is a fun little crag! Not busy and still fairly new. There is still some lichen covering the holds, but it is not as slippery as you'd think. You can still find some good footing when you need it. The approach is steep but short, and it can be hard to find a good belay position on some of the routes, but overall I think is a great place for quick outing, after work or when you don't want to battle crowds. Aug 30, 2014
TresSki Roach
Santa Fe, NM
[Hide Comment] Yeah, the Urban Alpine Crag name came about one year when Lee and I were climbing it in wintery conditions before we established the area. Being alpine partners, the cold conditions and lichen reminded us of our alpine climbing exploits. We joked about the name that day and declared that if we could get it bolted, we'd name it that. So we did. :-) Jul 7, 2015
Andrew Steavpack
Castle Pines, CO
[Hide Comment] Stopped by the Urban Alpine Crag, and the adjacent rock whose face is adjacent to the face of the UAC looked like it would have some great potential for some routes. I kept looking at it as we climbed and saw what I thought could be a bolt, went over to inspect and there was in fact a bolted route on a steep overhang with better looking rock quality than the UAC. Didn't get the chance to attempt the route due to getting rained out. In addition to this one route, there was a rope with knots tied into it to get to approximately the second bolt on this route and led the way between two rocks possibly leading to more routes over here. Anybody know about this area? Not on Mountain Project to my knowledge, but will be exploring this area again later this week. May 23, 2017
[Hide Comment] Hey Andrew, I saw that too and went up there to check it out. We rapped the route to check it out. It had a bees' nest on it, so when we went for it, we were halted by the bees as they started to sworn as we approached it. Let me know if you have any info on it. May go look at it again soon. Sep 9, 2017
[Hide Comment] I was present during the accident here on April 6th. Ask away. Apr 8, 2019
Mike Lane
AnCapistan
[Hide Comment] Colton, so what happened? May 5, 2019
David Dentry
Morrison, CO
[Hide Comment] This is a nice little crag with five or six nice, very similar climbs. The approach climb up the hill is sporty, and the belay stances are a little sketchy, but it's all well bolted with convenient anchors. Good for a few hours of fun. Apr 26, 2020
Scott Chico
Morrison CO
[Hide Comment] First time here yesterday and it was certainly a different type of climbing then we've been accustomed to in Clear Creek and Staunton! More crimps and sharp rock that make you think about your footwork. After the first climbn we got it dialed in and really enjoyed ourselves.

Thanks for another great crag! Jun 17, 2020
Alex Hayes
Madison, WI
[Hide Comment] I recommend bringing some double length slings or other material to set self-equalizing anchors at the top. Several of the bolts are not quite at the same height, and you may prefer something other than two quickdraws as an anchor for toproping. Sep 20, 2020
[Hide Comment] This is my home crag, and I absolute love this place - very fun well-protected sport climbs. I am currently considering buying and installing Mussy hooks on most of these climbs but am not sure about what other people opinions on that is. I feel that this would make a great addition to the crag and make it even safer for lowering, but if anyone is opposed to this, let me know, and I won't. I figure I would ask and get some opinions on this, so let me know what everyone's thoughts on this are. Apr 22, 2023
[Hide Comment] Great little crag! We climbed here for the second time this evening and ticked the last three climbs. Surprisingly varied climbing for such a small wall — perfect for a quick after work burn. May 7, 2024
[Hide Comment] @kai — I’d love some Mussy hooks; we might have gotten another climb in if we didn’t have to thread the rope for rappels!

I’m just a guy who climbs here though and not one of the developers, so I’d def yield to them…. May 7, 2024