The Urban Alpine Crag Rock Climbing
|GPS:||39.542, -105.172 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||Lee Smith on Aug 16, 2012|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionUrban? Alpine? This diminutive wall in Deer Creek Canyon has a uniquely North Face feel only seconds from a busy road. Urban well-bolted, moderate, sport routes with interesting and cerebral climbing on fairly solid gneiss/schist with a Clear Creek feel and a 45 second approach. Alpine said approach is horrendously loose and steep; lichen, moss, dirt, and a bad weather magnet give a distinctly un-sport crag appeal. Add in some rattlesnakes, unstable ground, and aggressive vegetation and you have the making of an adventure within sight of DTC. This little fin of rock will give you your moneys worth with some tenuous, inobvious climbing, and thinky routes. All the routes are short and as mentioned, very well-bolted. This is a great little crag for those after work burns on the Southwest side of the Metro.
Due to the nature of the rock and difficulty of getting above, most routes are not top-rope friendly with the exception of K2 and Morin a Minute. Plan on leading. All the routes can be easily done with a 60 meter rope. The very friendly nature of the bolt spacing makes these excellent first time leads at the grade. The starts are usually the most difficult section of the routes, and although the climbing can be tenuous, the rock is very well featured. Since this is a new crag, it still is being cleaned, and there are little pockets of loose rock. It is best to protect the belayer here. It is North-facing and shady even in the high summer.
Getting ThereDeer Creek Canyon is far south and west in the Denver Metro. Make your way to the intersection of C-470 and Kipling Parkway in Littleton. Heading south from this intersection, make the first right turn onto W. Ute Ave. (heading west). Pass the Johns Manville plant and Xcel energy, round a couple of sharp turns and head into the Canyon proper. Set your odometer at the electric substation at the mouth of the Canyon.
From the substation, go exactly 3.0 miles up the windy Deer Creek Canyon Road keeping an eye out for the Canyons namesake. On the right (north) side of the road, you will see a graffitied garage. The parking pullout is on the opposite (south) side of the road. Hang a dangerous u-turn here or head up the road further and turn around at a safer spot and come back. The crag is a couple hundred feet to the west (up-canyon) of the pullout. Cross the road and head straight up to the base.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Urban Alpine Crag
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season