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Routes in Sunshine Buttess (aka Wichita Wall)

"Unnamed Arete" S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Can Do T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cerebellum T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Dirty Sanchez T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Free Fall T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gecko, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goofer's Roof T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jack Straw T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jam Crack Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kanarado Korner T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reflections T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Scotch on the Rocks S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shannon's Bloody Leg V3-4 6A+
Split Decision S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wichita Skyline T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zig Zag T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Elevation: 10,500 ft
GPS: 39.571, -106.118 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 10,432 total, 161/month
Shared By: Rob Griz on Aug 13, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

This is a south-facing, multi-pitch wall that is comprised of slab, face, and roofs. It may also be known as the Sunshine Wall. It gets excellent sun and is perfect for late Spring through Fall. The rock is high quality gneiss with some exfoliation on the slabby areas. It is only 1/4 mile away from the popular White Cliff and is soon to be a similar, popular destination. I have divided the wall into 3 areas, West, Central, and East walls. Unlike White Cliff, the West and Central walls are not recommended for dogs or kids as a slip here would result in a 60-100'+ fall down steep slabs and ledges. It seems that Wichita Wall also hosts a few more challenging lines as compared to White Cliff. The approach talus is large, stable, and lichen covered but, when wet, acts like ice.

The majority of the climbing here is MIXED, and a standard, single set of cams and nuts are needed for leading some of the routes here. Since this is a multi-pitch area and I have set up the 1st pitches with anchors, keep in mind that toproping is acceptable so long as you are not impeding the opportunity for other climbers to lead through to the upper pitches. Please be courteous and allow climbers to lead through so that they may access the routes above. This pertains to routes like Scotch on the Rocks and the 1st pitch of Free Fall.

L->R:
A. Reflections, 10+, 2p, 180', gear.
above and right of A. Wichita Skyline, 10, 1p, bolts.
above and right of A. Unnamed Arete, 9+, 1p, 70', bolts & gear.
B? Above All, 9+, 2p?, solo or TR?
C. Jackstraw, 10+, 2p.
above & right of C. Kanarado Korner / Jam Crack Route, 10, 1p, bolts & gear.
D. Scotch On The Rocks, 7, 1p, 100', bolts.
E? Paradise Lost, 6 R, 2p?
F. Free Fall, 10, 2p, bolts & gear.
G. Zig Zag / Gully, 6, 3p, gear.
H. The Gecko, 9, 1p, 120', bolts & gear.
above H. Can Do, 7, 1p, 70', gear.
I1? Cerebellum, 7 R, 1p, 120', gear.
I2? Variation, 9 R.
JH. Split Decision, 11, 1p, bolts.
K. Goofer's Roof aka Roof Right, 8, 1p, 70', gear.
LJ1. Center Roof, 8 R, 2p.
M. Dirty Sanchez, 6, 1p, 70', gear.

Click here for another topo and here for an archived guide.

Getting There

From Exit 201 in Frisco, travel West on I-70 for approximately 0.2 miles (passing the old mine ruins on the right). As you merge into traffic, turn on your right turn signal and ride the shoulder. Soon you will come to a small, grassy clearing. Park here. You know you are in the correct location when you see the sign (soon to come) denoting the parking area marking the Wichita Wall and the Ding Dong Dome, attached to the old high-power line pole "stump". Currently there is an old shoe atop the "stump". Follow cairns up the large talus to a path through the aspens to the wall. The trail splits, heading left will take you to the West and Central walls, heading right will bring you to the East Wall. To gain the West and Central walls, the trail brings you to a 6 step iron ladder and fixed line. This leads you under the Central wall and continues on to the West wall, 60m left.

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sunshine Buttess (aka Wichita Wall)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zig Zag
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goofer's Roof
Trad, Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
The Gecko
Trad, Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Free Fall
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wichita Skyline
Trad, Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Zig Zag 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Goofer's Roof 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport
The Gecko 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport
Free Fall 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Wichita Skyline 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
More Classic Climbs in Sunshine Buttess (aka Wichita Wall) »

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