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Roadside Crag

California > Southern Sierra > Needles / Kern… > Lower Kern River Canyon

Description

Almost vertical craggy climb, 40ft, pretty solid granite, has good cracks to place tons of stoppers/cams, has good footholds and a few good fist jams in there. I never see anyone there, about 30 ft from the road, good spot to set up at the bottom.

Two sets of two bolt hangers on the top for rappel, but they go over an edge so bring that old water hose. You can hike off the back around to the right (watch your step, its steep and gravelly).

Bring your brand new shiny set of BD stoppers or a set of cams if you're lazy like me. I used 5 stoppers and one #2 cam, and made my own master point at the top using a double length sling. See attached photos.

Shaded until around 11:00am during summer months.

Getting There

Take Rosedale/24th Street/the 178 into the Kern River Canyon, and once you pass the death toll sign continue for around 3 miles until you see a large turnout on the left, and a smaller one on the right. Pull over on the right and look to your right.

Happy Climbing!

Routes from Left to Right

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
ArĂȘte
TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
Blackey
Sport, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 5
Center Crack
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 4
Right Crack
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
ArĂȘte
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Blackey
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
Center Crack
 5
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Right Crack
 4
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Roadside Crag
[Hide Photo] Roadside Crag
Pic of one set of hangars (sorry kinda hard to see) and the rock lip just beyond that you'll want to protect your rope from.
[Hide Photo] Pic of one set of hangars (sorry kinda hard to see) and the rock lip just beyond that you'll want to protect your rope from.
Roadside Crag.  Person on top for scale.
[Hide Photo] Roadside Crag. Person on top for scale.
View of the entire roadside Craig
[Hide Photo] View of the entire roadside Craig
Summit pose! Just a quick visual on what the protection looks like. I used 6 draws, a few shoulder-length slings and a half a set of Stoppers
[Hide Photo] Summit pose! Just a quick visual on what the protection looks like. I used 6 draws, a few shoulder-length slings and a half a set of Stoppers

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This area already has a name. It's called "Roadside Crag." The route in the picture is "Center Crack" and goes at 5.5. There's also "Right Crack" 5.5 that follows the crack on the right side of the photo, and "Roadside Arete" 5.9 on the right side of the formation (out of the photo). There's also a fun bolted .10d called "Blacky" located about 80 yards North of this formation. Jul 9, 2012
Shawn H
Bakersfield, Ca
[Hide Comment] Sweet little Crag you can mess around on. All Granite, single pitch trad and Sport Climbs Available. You can find 6 or more fun climbs here, perfect for beginner trad climbing. This is about 100' off the road and u can easily make the approach in flip flops. Flip flops you say?? Yea, because afterwards you can take a refreshing dip in the river across the street! :)

From the mouth of the canyon go approx 3.3 mi and the Crag will be on the right. Best option is to find it using the photo. There will be a turnout on both the right hand side as well as the left. Jun 6, 2016
Sean Sullivan
California
[Hide Comment] Fun spot to stop at least once. 40ft is pushing it, especially on the arete and the 5.11. I would bring a pad next time for the 5.11, if it was in bishop it would be a highball classic. I think the two cracks would make for great solos if your into that. Not worth roping up for in my opinion. Great spot for first timers and make sure you hop on that 5.11! (Felt like 10c) Oct 30, 2016