Above the Waves Rock Climbing
|GPS:||25.106, 121.923 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Nate Ball on Jul 2, 2012|
Atop the bench, there will be a prominent roof just above your head. Several amusingly-named moderate trad routes, such as Golden Shower, ascend half of this wall to a horizontal. If you're feeling bold, you could venture to the top of the wall, as bolted anchors (2016) exist for rappel.
Step up another short dihedral to an even higher platform to experience the European's legacy: adventures like Snake Alley. These used to be the only multi-pitch sport routes at Long Dong. Unfortunately, current bolt status is highly questionable. They can be climbed with trad gear, which is highly recommended, as they top out to some incredible views.
Beyond this, the platform descends to a slick, shellfish-encrusted catwalk that is often battered by waves and wind. When the ocean is calm, you can access a few excellent trad routes like Doublethink and the Cathouse beyond. The approach can be treacherous during high tides. If you're thinking about climbing here, first scope the waves from the ledges above.
The Cathouse is one of the least accessible and least visited areas of Long Dong. The only bolts here are titanium anchors (2016). For the adventurous traditional climber, this is where it's at. A concentration of super high-quality routes ascend the cracks that break up this multi-tiered section of cliff. This ledge is set far above the waves, and is an extraordinary setting.
If the seas are calm, you can even traverse around the base of this cliff towards the sea, and take a dip in the perfect self-contained pool.
Routes like Catapult begin at a flat section of rock at the base of a wide, broken 20' dihedral. This is the approach to the Cathouse proper, containing routes like BA Insanity. This section is 5.2ish, but can be treacherous with a big pack and crashing waves. Be careful.
If the seas are very calm, you can approach from Backdoor as well.
Rain & Shade
The cliff faces east-southeast. Lots of morning sun, dipping into the shade in the early afternoon. It can be exposed to a lot of wind and spray, as well.
Classic Climbing Routes at Above the Waves
Days w Precip