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Routes in (9) Above the Waves

BA Insanity T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cat's Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climax T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cold Sushi T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cunning Linguist T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dangerous Games T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Doublethink T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fillet Show T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gold Club T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gold Member T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Shower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goldline T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Happy Endings T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lap Dance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Let's Do The Trad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Love You Long Time TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ocean's Eleven T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Orange Juice S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pearl Necklace T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Psycho Killer T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rastafarian Seabirds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snake Alley T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tanz en Den Mai S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tofu Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wet and Hairy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Elevation: 91 ft
GPS: 25.106, 121.923 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 2,210 total, 33/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Jul 2, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball
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Description

Just beyond the southern edge of the Golden Valley amphitheater is a short bench of rock. Climbing up this you will reach what I am calling "Above the Waves" - the translation from Chinese. This area encompasses the Gold Wall, the Euro Wall, the Catwalk, and the Cathouse.

Atop the bench, there will be a prominent roof just above your head. Several amusingly-named moderate trad routes, such as Golden Shower, ascend half of this wall to a horizontal. If you're feeling bold, you could venture to the top of the wall, as bolted anchors (2016) exist for rappel.

Step up another short dihedral to an even higher platform to experience the European's legacy: adventures like Snake Alley. These used to be the only multi-pitch sport routes at Long Dong. Unfortunately, current bolt status is highly questionable. They can be climbed with trad gear, which is highly recommended, as they top out to some incredible views.

Beyond this, the platform descends to a slick, shellfish-encrusted catwalk that is often battered by waves and wind. When the ocean is calm, you can access a few excellent trad routes like Doublethink and the Cathouse beyond. The approach can be treacherous during high tides. If you're thinking about climbing here, first scope the waves from the ledges above.

The Cathouse is one of the least accessible and least visited areas of Long Dong. The only bolts here are titanium anchors (2016). For the adventurous traditional climber, this is where it's at. A concentration of super high-quality routes ascend the cracks that break up this multi-tiered section of cliff. This ledge is set far above the waves, and is an extraordinary setting.

If the seas are calm, you can even traverse around the base of this cliff towards the sea, and take a dip in the perfect self-contained pool.
Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Getting There

From the southern parking lot, descend the Golden Valley trail. When you find yourself at the base, turn right and head south past the Golden Valley climbs, until you have to climb a ramp up to the overhanging start of routes like Golden Shower. Continue past Tofu Tower and multi-pitch sport routes. Beware of waves and slick rock at high tide!

Routes like Catapult begin at a flat section of rock at the base of a wide, broken 20' dihedral. This is the approach to the Cathouse proper, containing routes like BA Insanity. This section is 5.2ish, but can be treacherous with a big pack and crashing waves. Be careful.

If the seas are very calm, you can approach from Backdoor as well.

Rain & Shade

All routes get wet in the rain. Snake Alley's first pitch tends to seep, as does Stalker at Cathouse, and perhaps some routes near 2nd pitch of I Love the Trad.

The cliff faces east-southeast. Lots of morning sun, dipping into the shade in the early afternoon. It can be exposed to a lot of wind and spray, as well.

25 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at (9) Above the Waves

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snake Alley
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Snake Alley 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
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