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Routes in The Babylon Crag

PFM. Pure f $%^&* magic. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
All American Arete S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
All American Hand Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Babylon T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Box Tops T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Corner left of All American Hand Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Far East T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left for Dead T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Proof of Purchase T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

Description

Situated South of I-80, The Babylon Crag contains a handful of climbs ranging from moderate to one striking 5.12+ finger crack. Some of the granite is coarse like that found on the Black Wall, but is high quality. The North East face is steadily overhung and boasts a stunning, right arching finger crack called Babylon (5.12c), a good way of identifying that you are on the crag when coming out of the pines.

If you are looking to get away from the crowds at Donner, this is your spot.

Seasonal Raptor Closure at Black Wall-Lifted 2016 Details

Getting There

Unfortunately, while the crag is not that far from the road it is a bit guarded by the thick manzanita bushes that are on the way toward and largely surrounding the crag.

Heading East from Boreal Ski resort on I-80 you will pass a small lake near the summit. After this lake, pull into a large gravel pullout. From the "parking lot", trend down the rude trail leading to a stream you will either ford or jump. From here generally trend South until you emerge on The Babylon Crag. There is not much of if any trail leading to the crag. Climbing is situated on the NE and South facing aspects.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Babylon Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Just a note on Rope Length. A 60M rope will only just make it from Box Top / Proof of Purchase anchors as well as Far East. From the anchors at the top of PFM or All American Arete or the corner left of All American Hand Crack you need a 70M rope. Jul 11, 2014
I've taken to leaving a note on the dash when parking in the pull out saying "out hiking car not abandoned" and have not had a problem since I was warned about a year ago. There is alternative and only slightly longer aproach parking at the Rest Area and walking down from the PCT if folks don't want to risk it. This time of year its really a evening only crag, as the rock is dark and the routes face sun almost all day. Jul 6, 2014
Ryan Rougeux
Sacramento, California
Ryan Rougeux   Sacramento, California
July 1, 2014. We received a warning ticket when we parked at the suggested gravel pull out. Jul 6, 2014
Greg Patrick
Auburn, Ca
Greg Patrick   Auburn, Ca
In the 1980s the Babylon Crack was THE crack climb for up and coming local hardmen to gauge themselves against. Last time I was there the "trail" had become completely overgrown due to lack of use. Don't let that deter you if you are up for 5.12+ crack. Climbing Babylon is a great feather in any climbers cap! Dec 11, 2013
There's been some recent route development on Babylon. Anyone care to spill the beta? A couple of the corners have been cleaned and there are anchors at the top of several very good looking cracks and slab climbs. Oct 18, 2013

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