The Babylon Crag Rock Climbing
Routes in The Babylon Crag
|PFM. Pure f $%^&* magic. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|All American Arete S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|All American Hand Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Babylon T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Box Tops T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Corner left of All American Hand Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Far East T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Left for Dead T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Proof of Purchase T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|GPS:||39.343, -120.331 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||4,602 total, 68/month|
|Shared By:||Colonel Mustard on May 31, 2012|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
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DescriptionSituated South of I-80, The Babylon Crag contains a handful of climbs ranging from moderate to one striking 5.12+ finger crack. Some of the granite is coarse like that found on the Black Wall, but is high quality. The North East face is steadily overhung and boasts a stunning, right arching finger crack called Babylon (5.12c), a good way of identifying that you are on the crag when coming out of the pines.
If you are looking to get away from the crowds at Donner, this is your spot.
Access Notes Details
CRAGS and the Access Fund are beginning new projects to help improve access to Donner Summit. You can communicate access issues directly at CRAGS’ Donner Summit page norcalcrags.org/crags/donner/. In 2014, the Truckee Donner Land Trust and the Access Fund jointly launched the Save Donner Climbing campaign. The following year, it purchased formerly private land for public conservation and access, which includes the Black Wall and other nearby cliffs.
Getting ThereUnfortunately, while the crag is not that far from the road it is a bit guarded by the thick manzanita bushes that are on the way toward and largely surrounding the crag.
Heading East from Boreal Ski resort on I-80 you will pass a small lake near the summit. After this lake, pull into a large gravel pullout. From the "parking lot", trend down the rude trail leading to a stream you will either ford or jump. From here generally trend South until you emerge on The Babylon Crag. There is not much of if any trail leading to the crag. Climbing is situated on the NE and South facing aspects.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Babylon Crag
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season