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Routes in Beaverview

Afternoon Tea T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Beardsley Buttress TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Bog Spavin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Dark Speed T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Drumthwacket T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Forgotten Days T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
King & I T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Leaver Your Beaver T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Livin' on the Edge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Requiem pro Patris T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Slim Pickins T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
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Shared By: Jay Harrison on May 16, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer
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Description

One of the more-expansive sections of rock on Crane, the Beaverview Wall lies just east of the Pond trail. Facing slightly west of south, the cliff is as much as 200'+ tall, but mostly consists of low-angle faces and steep slabs.
Its left side has the few steeper faces, divided across by large, sloping ledges and vertically by steep, dirty gullies. The wall diminishes to a series of slabs and short faces as it nears the Pond trail to the west, and ends abruptly in a steep drainage to the east.
Above, the terrain is steep & thickly-wooded with frequent dirty slabs; bushwhacking from the top to reach the connector trail is miserable.
Like most of the cliffs on Crane, the Beaverview isn't well-manicured. Exploration has been going on here for close to 50 years, but records are scarce, visits are few. Bring along a wire brush and expect to use it. Be prepared for occasional heart-thumping runouts, and don't be surprised if the suggested grade seems woefully inaccurate.
That said, there are some excellent routes on the crag. For those willing and able to manage the Adirondack Alpine nature of it, a day or two here is well worth the effort; and for those seeking new route potential, this may be the closest, most reliable rock to explore.

Getting There

The fastest approach uses a private property parking area at the bitter end of Crane Mtn. Road, off Garnet Lake Road on the other side of the mountain from the State trailhead parking lot. This access involves a seasonal-use road that is very rough and may be impassable during wet spells. It is NOT plowed in the winter. If you use this road, hike the trail to the point where it crosses a creek and enters State Land. Follow the trail heading up the mountain to the point where it begins to climb, then cut diagonally off-trail up and right.
To reach this point from the State trailhead, take the trail heading west along the bottom of the mountain 1 mile, head uphill and cut diagonally up right.

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NOTE: Rockfall has significantly modified the terrain on the section of cliff containing Drumthwacket. The base is now open - all the trees have been smashed - but rather than a wooded steep slope, it is now a jumble of large boulders and debris. The routes are still climbable, but the trees on the ledge are gone, and the ledge (and stances along the way) is cluttered with debris as well. Be wary of loose material lying on slabs. Finding a viable belay anchor is challenging now. And also, there is a remnant of loose blocks still clinging to the slab 80' above the top-out of the routes here, pinned to the slope by a stubborn spruce tree. I suspect it will not hold off the elements for many years before it too succumbs to gravity's allure.
The area covered extends from Livin' on the Edge, to Beat the Crowd. Dec 2, 2016

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