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Elevation: 6,594 ft
GPS: 39.55516, -111.67382
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 32,041 total · 220/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on May 12, 2012
Admins: Jim Clarke, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

Description Suggest change

The Windshield Wiper Wall is a tall, shady collection of steep faces. Right next to the road, there is effectively zero approach. A plethora of quickdraws are needed (up to 27 draws are needed for a single route).

The routes are mostly .12- (eight), a .12c, three .11s, and a single specimen of 5.10.

See this description of the Willy Stick for an account of how this wall got its name.

Getting There Suggest change

After about a half mile drive up the canyon, a wide, dark streak appears between two tan-colored walls on the left side of the road. A dark chain anchor is visible midway up on the wall to the right of the streak.

During the winter months the streak hosts the ice route Bottomless and Topless.

Park at a shallow pullout on the right (or across the road at a deeper pullout on the left) and walk back down canyon a hundred feet or so. An obvious trail/drainage-from-the-streak will appear on the south side of the road.

15 Total Climbs

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Location: Windshield Wiper Wall Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Windshield Wiper Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 34
Half-Baked
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 188
Half Hearted
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 156
The Hitchhiker
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 18
The Attribute
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 34
Too Drunk to Dream
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 56
Whiskey on the Southbound
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 124
Forbiddance
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 34
Never Go Left
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 49
Nuclear Sponge
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 135
Beaten into Submission aka King…
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 49
Never Go Right
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 122
DOO (difference of opinion)
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 66
Jackknifed
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Half-Baked
 34
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Half Hearted
 188
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
The Hitchhiker
 156
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Attribute
 18
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Too Drunk to Dream
 34
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Whiskey on the Southbound
 56
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Forbiddance
 124
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Never Go Left
 34
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Nuclear Sponge
 49
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Beaten into Submission aka…
 135
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Never Go Right
 49
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
DOO (difference of opinion)
 122
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Jackknifed
 66
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Windshield Wiper Wall »

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