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Description

I have debated for a long time about posting this crag. However, a recent meeting with the new owner of the land suggests some potential room for negotiation of access.

Several years ago a dozen sport routes were developed on the upper and lower tiers of this crag. The rock is superb, bullet hard, and granitic in nature. Most of the routes are brilliant, including one of the best 5.9s I've ever done, an insanely hard roof problem (may need the young 5.14 guns), and numerous excellent routes in the 5.11/5.12 range. There still remains significant room for additional hard and moderate new route development.

For several years preceeding and following the development of the routes access was up and down, apparently open, then private, then sold to new owners, and resold a short while later. In 2011 either access to, or the crag itself, was purchased by a gentleman from Lubbock, Texas. He posted "No Trespassing" signs that included his name and telephone number. I had a chance meeting with him in the parking space late in 2011. His argument for posting the signs was that due to apparent liability issues he would close the area to climbing and trespass in general.

This may be a situation where work with the Access Fund in conjunction with the new owner just might open this crag. Whether one is inclined to climb this crag on not is not itself particularly important. However, if it is possible to negotiate access then this might create a precedent in this area with the potential to impact some of the other brilliant crags, like Sphinx, that are also currently closed to climbing. The wedge issue at Sport Rock appears to be largely one of liability, inasmuch as there is almost no good opportunity to build on this site.

Lower Tier (left to right)
A. Project 5.14 (?) *** (solved for all but the roof reach)
B. 5.9 **** (classic)

Upper Tier (left to right)
C. P1 5.10c, P2 5.7 **
D. P1 5.11b, P2 5.7 **
E. 5.10d ***
F. 5.7 * (approach to ledge with belay anchor for the start of G,H)
G. 5.12a/b *** (brilliant)
H. 5.11d ***
I. 5.12b/c *** (brilliant, classic boiler plate)
J. 5.11c/d **
K. 5.12b **
L. 5.12c **
Currently Private Details

Getting There

This crag can be approached either from Pine or from US 285, which is much closer. At the intersection of US 285 and the East Elk Creek Road, at the Shaeffer's Crossing sign, turn south on East Elk Creek Road. There is a small pullout exactly 2.3 miles from the intersection on the right side of the road. The crags are obvious, on the opposite side of the road, and a short way uphill.

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Nicholas R Bennett
Denver, CO
Nicholas R Bennett   Denver, CO
Anyone still active in this area? Anyone know who developed the routes? Sep 16, 2016
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
On November 16 of 2012, ABS and I ran up for a quick run on several of these routes. We encountered no people, no resistance, and no trouble at all throughout the short day we spent at the crag. Low key BUVOS seems to have worked well here for the last two years. The climbing on this crag is really excellent. Working through the Access Fund to try and open it up is certainly worthwhile, and there is loads more potential for moderate and hard routes. Mar 24, 2013
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
Richard, thanks for posting the great beta.

Edit: I haven't climbed here yet, but I drove by the wall today, and it looks like it faces almost directly SW and is pretty high, so it gets late sun. Sep 6, 2012
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Here is the current list of routes. Most routes take 10- 12 quick draws and have double bolt anchors at the top. Rock quality is superb and clean as whistle.

Lower Tier (left to right)
A. Project 5.14 (?) *** (solved for all but the roof reach)
B. 5.9 **** (classic)

Upper Tier (left to right)
C. P1 5.10c, P2 5.7 **
D. P1 5.11b, P2 5.7 **
E. 5.10d ***
F. 5.7 * (approach to ledge with belay anchor for the start of G,H)
G. 5.12a/b *** (brilliant)
H. 5.11d ***
I. 5.12b/c *** (brilliant, classic boiler plate)
J. 5.11c/d **
K. 5.12b **
L. 5.12c ** Sep 5, 2012
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
I was just fly-fishing across the road from this crag a couple of days ago and looked up to see that nice face. I was thinking about how there could be some nice lines up there when suddenly the sun glinted off some bolts for a moment, so I came here to look it up. Too bad; it sounds like it's off-limits. Well, I think the creek across the street is public at that point, so you can catch a couple of brown trout, if nothing else. Just in case, is there any more detailed beta anywhere, even a list of ratings? Sep 4, 2012
Mike Morin
North Conway, NH
Mike Morin   North Conway, NH
Hi Richard,

I happen to know the crag of which you speak ,and your latest post got me excited, so I did a little digging in the county maps. What I found was unfortunately the crag does lie on the Stephens property. Sep 4, 2012
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
Hey Richard, it sounds like this crag is in Jefferson County. Have you tried using the JeffCO Assessor's ASPIN Map tool to determine ownership? Check it out here. Sep 4, 2012
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
9/2/2012: we climbed at these crags after a brief discussion with the owner of the house 1/4 mile upstream of the crags. He thought that the crags per se were not part of the R. R. Stephens property, and they are not part of his property. We hiked up through a boulderfield roughly 100 yds upstream of the last "No Trespassing" sign posted along the road, in a sector that is unmarked by any signage. We climbed all day without disturbance of any kind. So far, I have been unable to located material that would define the exact limits of the Stephens property. Knowing this might be key in terms of access. Sep 4, 2012

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