Sport Rock Climbing
|Shared By:||Richard M. Wright on May 11, 2012|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionI have debated for a long time about posting this crag. However, a recent meeting with the new owner of the land suggests some potential room for negotiation of access.
Several years ago a dozen sport routes were developed on the upper and lower tiers of this crag. The rock is superb, bullet hard, and granitic in nature. Most of the routes are brilliant, including one of the best 5.9s I've ever done, an insanely hard roof problem (may need the young 5.14 guns), and numerous excellent routes in the 5.11/5.12 range. There still remains significant room for additional hard and moderate new route development.
For several years preceeding and following the development of the routes access was up and down, apparently open, then private, then sold to new owners, and resold a short while later. In 2011 either access to, or the crag itself, was purchased by a gentleman from Lubbock, Texas. He posted "No Trespassing" signs that included his name and telephone number. I had a chance meeting with him in the parking space late in 2011. His argument for posting the signs was that due to apparent liability issues he would close the area to climbing and trespass in general.
This may be a situation where work with the Access Fund in conjunction with the new owner just might open this crag. Whether one is inclined to climb this crag on not is not itself particularly important. However, if it is possible to negotiate access then this might create a precedent in this area with the potential to impact some of the other brilliant crags, like Sphinx, that are also currently closed to climbing. The wedge issue at Sport Rock appears to be largely one of liability, inasmuch as there is almost no good opportunity to build on this site.
Lower Tier (left to right)
A. Project 5.14 (?) *** (solved for all but the roof reach)
B. 5.9 **** (classic)
Upper Tier (left to right)
C. P1 5.10c, P2 5.7 **
D. P1 5.11b, P2 5.7 **
E. 5.10d ***
F. 5.7 * (approach to ledge with belay anchor for the start of G,H)
G. 5.12a/b *** (brilliant)
H. 5.11d ***
I. 5.12b/c *** (brilliant, classic boiler plate)
J. 5.11c/d **
K. 5.12b **
L. 5.12c **
Currently Private Details
Access may be open to discussion with the new owner.
Getting ThereThis crag can be approached either from Pine or from US 285, which is much closer. At the intersection of US 285 and the East Elk Creek Road, at the Shaeffer's Crossing sign, turn south on East Elk Creek Road. There is a small pullout exactly 2.3 miles from the intersection on the right side of the road. The crags are obvious, on the opposite side of the road, and a short way uphill.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season