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Routes in Good Luck Mountain

Appomattox Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Bon Chance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cleveland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
House of Cards T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lady Luck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Medicine Man T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mystery Achievement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Push S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Queen For a Day T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Talking Heads T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Elevation: 2,151 ft
GPS: 43.249, -74.557 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 5,320 total · 76/month
Shared By: Cameron Coppock on May 10, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer
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Description

A beautiful south facing granite cliff offering predominately single pitch trad crack climbs with a few bolts here and there.

There are three separate climbing spots here:

(1) The Main Face -- obvious, where most of the routes are located. The left side is broken up a bit, and there is a separate buttress on the far left separated by gullies.

(2) The Summit Cliff -- a small cliff that sits above the left side of the Main Face, and directly below the viewpoint on the summit. There are two routes here.

(3) Good Luck Boulder -- a very large boulder with two routes. This sits in middle of the substantial talus below the main face. There is no easy access to the top of this boulder.

Getting There

From Caroga Lake drive north on NY 10 to a parking area just after crossing the Scandaga River. Follow the marked trail to a four way intersection with a large sign, turn left and follow the this old road to the lake. Continue for 2-3 minutes watching for a flagged trail that heads off and up to the right just before a bridge. The cliffs will become visible in about 15 minutes more. Total approach 45min.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Good Luck Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lady Luck
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bon Chance
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cleveland
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mystery Achievement
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Medicine Man
Trad
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Push
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
House of Cards
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Lady Luck
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Bon Chance
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Cleveland
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Mystery Achievement
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Medicine Man
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Push
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
House of Cards
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Good Luck Mountain »

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Photos

This was my first time to this area. Great camping at good luck lake, 5th campsite at the far west end offers a soft ground and also perfect trees for hammocks. Awesome cliff that offers a lot of exposure. Bolts are few and far between but trad climbing is the best option for this area. Large boulder field at base of cliff makes the accessibility a bit tough. It would be nice to establish some sort of trail along the base to protect the plants and provide a better belay stance. Will be back in the future. May 31, 2016

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