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Routes in Boxelder Forks

10a Roof Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
5.6 Roof Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
5.7 Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
5.8 TCU Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crap Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Finger crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Right Dihedral T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Job Corps Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Job Corps Left Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Job Corps Pillar T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Job Corps Right Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Main Wall Far Left Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
McNeil's Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Munge Offwidth T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Offwicth Blade T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pat's Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pillar Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pyramid on ledge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
TCU Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Terry's Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Walkers route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
dihedral route 10a T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elevation: 4,943 ft
GPS: 44.202, -103.539 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 2,820 total, 41/month
Shared By: Mike McNeil on Apr 11, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty
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Description

Boxelder Forks is a climbing area with about 20+ crack climbs. Many are very splitter and up to 100 feet in lenght. there have been no bolts or anchors on top of the routes as there are easy gear anchors, trees, or you can just walk off at the top. Many cracks go from fingers to offwidth so therefore take a wide selection of gear. Many have been cleaned of the major loose rocks, but use caution as they have not seen a lot of traffic. Most routes are in the 5.8 to 5.10 range and feature crack climbing where at times the most efficient way to climb them is with both hands and feet in the crack which seems to be a rarity in the South Dakota Black Hills.

Getting There

Take Boxelder Forks Road directly behind Nemo to the Boxelder Forks campground. Park just before the bridge before getting to the campground and take the trail that passes the campground on the opposite side of the creek from the campground. Walk about 10 minutes and you will start to pass a large talus field on your right. There will be some cool looking rock on the top of the ridge. This is not it. The majority of the routes are just down and left from the "good looking rock". There are also about 5 routes on the West facing wall the is easiest to access by passing this wall an the left going over the ridge and to the west. You can then scramble down to the top of the cliff and rapel off with one rope. If you are in the right spot you will be able to see Job Corps below you and to the northwest. There are several pictures on this site of Boxelder Forks under the South Dakota Page. You also pass a wall right above the creek after about a mile in that has two very nice routes and probably several others. One has a crack that goes directly to the summit of a small tower and is about 130 feet long. The other starts right next to the water and has 6-7 bolts on it and finishes with gear. The latter may have been unknowingly retro bolted by me as Brent probably did it in 82. I did however clean the crap out of both and are of much higher quality than when I started. Both are in the 5.7-5.8 range. Looks like there are several more possible routes on this wall.

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Mike McNeil
Spearfish, South Dakota
Mike McNeil   Spearfish, South Dakota
Tried to put a lot of the routes on this wall from memory and the pictures I could find. I think I missd a couple on the main wall as I think there is seventeen. There is 7 on the Job Corps wall with one real good route on either side of the Job Corps Crack, 5.7 on the right and 5.8+ on the left that is real fun. Dihedral on the far left is good and my brother Pat did a 5.10 left around the corner that is dirty but with a great steep hands and fist top out. Jun 23, 2015

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