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Routes in Redgarden Wall

X-Man T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Elevation: 6,595 ft
GPS: 33.49, -107.41 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Karl Kiser on Mar 19, 2012
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
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Description

This is the large crag, about 160 feet high, roughly three quarters of a mile south of Luna Park on the east side of the road.

Getting There

Park vehicles near the corral at the bottom of the last hill prior to Luna Park. Walk up and right to the saddle, then contour on game trails to the base of the cliff.

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The locals have established three trad routes on Redgarden Wall. Starting left of X Man at the lowest portion of the wall is Recon, 5.6, 180'. Climb a block leaning against the face 20', continue up and pass a block on the right side, proceed up and slightly right until you reach an upper balcony and a corner, about 130'. Second pitch follows the corner, swallows pro and can be used for a first trad lead.

Right of X Man is Chutes and Ladders, 5.7 about 150'. Start by climbing an obvious 70' continuous layback covered in green lichen to a ramp. Climb the ramp to a cave, exit the cave via either of two cracks to the top. A 50' overhanging dark crack on the right hand wall also leads to the top from this cave and could go at 5.11. You can also reach the cave by climbing the wide chimney and passing the chock stone at the top.

New route potential is all over Regarden Wall, 5.9 and up. Email me for info.

If you use X Man as a rap route with a single 60 meter rope, recommended, be sure to lay your ropes to the right on the first rappel. As you get further down it's difficult to reach the ledge which seems hidden to the right, partially obscured by a bulge. You could easily not see the bolts and rap off your rope. Mar 14, 2016

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