Just West of Sandy Hook, Maryland is Balcony Rock, one of the areas tallest routes (around 80 feet) on dense, vertical and surprisingly clean rock. This area is surrounded by boulders that seems to be frequented a bit more than the rope climbing but I can not be certain. With that said, this is a fairly local crag that will rarely see more than one climbing party in a day.
Getting There
Balcony Rock is about 100 yards west of the School Bus turnaround down the road (West/towards Maryland Heights Proper) from town of Sandy Hook. Some say this turnaround can be used as parking on weekends, but the easiest thing to do is park down in the gravel by the Railroad lights closer to town - only a few hundred yards before the turnaround. If you do choose to park in the turnaround, don't attempt this risky move during the week and be mindful of those in town who daily use this as a turnaround.
Regardless of where you park, with the river on your left, walk until you get to two gates, follow the obvious trail with awesome stone steps to the right of these two gates. PLEASE use the stepped approach to reduce the risk of erosion, which we all know leads to access issues.
[Hide Photo] Balcony Rock routes from left to right: Cliff Monster, Bluto's Bluster, Sweet Pea, Crown of Thorns
[Hide Photo] Enter the trail about 20 feet before the first gate.
[Hide Photo] Balcony Rock routes from left to right: Popeye's, Poopdeck Pappy, Brutus, Professor Whatasnozzle
[Hide Photo] Can anyone help with what route this is? I traversed the roof crack instead of going behind the flake. Variation of Crown of Thorns? Photo by Chris Irwin
[Hide Comment] Route pictured I named CamelFlake. Looks like left variation from pic. This place was my second home and sure alot were 1st accents. The rt straight over top of flake is doable use kneebar and pray for long arms! Popeyes revenge is the best power route.if any way I can help anyone else out id be more than happy to. You can catch me at Walter Holliday@ yahoo.com. by the way...need a partner.get tired of bouldering. Hit me up.we'll have a blast. Peace n climb on!!! DOC
Jan 13, 2015
[Hide Comment] Do not park in turnaround even on weekend! I had just parked there on a Sunday and had to move my car so a community bus could turn around.
May 3, 2016
[Hide Comment] Parking Update: officers are ticketing anyone that parks in the school bus turnaround even on weekends. New Trail: there is an EMS access trail that runs from the school bus turnaround to the top of balcony and finally to Balcony Jr. It is well developed and makes the hike to jr much gentler. However, I believe it's also one reason why they are enforcing parking restrictions more strickly.
Trying parking under/around the bridge on sandy hook or at the MARC station in town and walk the foot bridge over the river.
Mar 25, 2017
[Hide Comment] Parking update: On Sunday April 9, 2017 the bus turnaround was jammed full with about 10-12 cars parked illegally. A Washington County Officer showed up around 3:00 and issued warnings and $60 parking tickets to everyone parked there. He said the local fire department needs to keep the turnaround lot free for emergency vehicles, and that they call the police department whenever they need to clear the turnaround area. Climbers can park under the Rt. 340 bridge or at the turnout for the Maryland Heights trail and ride a bike to the trailhead.
Apr 13, 2017
[Hide Comment] Hi all, I recently visited Balcony Rock and may be able to offer some advice on parking. I've detailed some close-ish parking in my blog post below, as well as overall crag experience:
[Hide Comment] Thank you Access Fund and all else involved for getting Harper's Ferry open to climbing again on the Maryland side! I was told you were allowed to park at the bus turnaround for Balcony and Balcony Jr., but we got a ticket there today.
Jan 1, 2020
[Hide Comment] Looks like there is a newer, additional anchor bolt about a few feet back of the older one. Honestly didn't even notice them until after I had already set up my TR anchor! For any first timers, they're on a ledge slightly below the "very" top. Fun little wall with some nice long moderates. Lovely view from the top. Biggest challenge is parking as mentioned.
Aug 22, 2022
[Hide Comment] I’m surprised I haven’t seen any comments about it, but Sandy Hook Rd has been closed since 2022 for construction, from “the turnaround” on down towards the bridge and beyond, and is supposed to open Dec 2023. The signs say “no pedestrians” and they’ve gated it and put a jersey barrier up to dissuade people from going around it.. Despite the multiple obvious “road closed” and “detour” signs farther back the road, a lot of “wanderers” end up driving there anyway and then they have to turn around and go back. Reportedly you can get to Balcony Rock from the trail going up the bus turnaround, but I cannot attest to that.
Also, the pictures of the approach to Balcony from Sandy Hook look like they were taken in early spring with no foliage. You can still find the trail, but don’t expect to see the two gates and obvious steps from the road…you just have to find the footpath through the thick brush.
Also also, it doesn’t seem that anyone has updated the anchor situation. I believe there are 2 sets of seemingly very good anchors now, 1 pair climbers left and another pair climbers right. They are offset quite a bit so you will probably need a long quad with an extension to get it right. There are also a lot of natural anchors in the back but you will need a long static to use them. There is also a lot of option to “rock-wrap” on all the giant boulders piled up there.
Aug 13, 2023
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Greencastle, PA
New Trail: there is an EMS access trail that runs from the school bus turnaround to the top of balcony and finally to Balcony Jr. It is well developed and makes the hike to jr much gentler. However, I believe it's also one reason why they are enforcing parking restrictions more strickly.
Trying parking under/around the bridge on sandy hook or at the MARC station in town and walk the foot bridge over the river. Mar 25, 2017
Vancouver, WA
cairnsandcarabiners.com/Blo…
I also mention a neat coffee shop in Harper's Ferry at the end that has a bouldering wall inside. Cheers! Jun 8, 2017
Greencastle, PA
Pittsburgh, PA
Baltimore, MD
Also, the pictures of the approach to Balcony from Sandy Hook look like they were taken in early spring with no foliage. You can still find the trail, but don’t expect to see the two gates and obvious steps from the road…you just have to find the footpath through the thick brush.
Also also, it doesn’t seem that anyone has updated the anchor situation. I believe there are 2 sets of seemingly very good anchors now, 1 pair climbers left and another pair climbers right. They are offset quite a bit so you will probably need a long quad with an extension to get it right. There are also a lot of natural anchors in the back but you will need a long static to use them. There is also a lot of option to “rock-wrap” on all the giant boulders piled up there. Aug 13, 2023