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Routes in Wood Canyon

Bee Wary T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Born Clean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chuckwalla FA T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conchoidal Arete T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dear Jam Letter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Down on the Pharm S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
HSB T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Redonkulous T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Scorpion's Retreat S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shorty Sporty S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Speed Bump S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thought Reform T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trouble No More S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two Face S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Elevation: 3,000 ft
GPS: 33.233, -111.112 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Ben Beard on Mar 7, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick
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Description

The main wall in Wood Canyon is a large, black outcrop that towers just east from the road. The wall faces west and at its highest is roughly 30 meters. A few sport routes exist with a few more trad and mixed routes. The rock typically can take great gear on many routes (as tested).
The rock is a perlite flow apart of the Picket Post Volcanic series. Somewhat similar to a basalt flow in how it climbs. Some routes still have loose rock and climbers, belayers, and dogs should be careful! The first crack that was climbed here found a Chuckwalla was found 20 meters up jammed inside the crack. This is "slack" country AZ climbing, you may find bats, scorpions, etc. Deal with it.
The wall faces west and with the dark rock, it can get pretty hot. Be respectful to the OHV, horseback riders, hunters, and other using Wood Canyon. It generally is a secluded and quiet place. Not much shade once the sun goes up until it goes behind the hills. 60 meter rope is OK, watch your ends. Many routes have rappel anchors with quick links or steel lockers. You may want to bring some quick links along on your lead. The steel lockers are not booty; please leave them. Top roping can be difficult on some of the climbs as you may have to extend the anchors. Most anchors are over the edge of the cliff and not easily reached from above (you can easily build an anchor w/ gear above to setup a TR). More potential exists for easy (<5.6) trad climbs on the south side of the wall for those willing to do the cleaning. The ethic here is to not bolt mostly protect-able lines.
The cracks and pockets take nuts and cams well. A single set of nuts, hexes, along with a single set of cams (maybe doubles of certain sizes, cams up to #4 c4) will be useful.
You could camp here, it's all USFS Tonto NF land. No bee hives in the rocks, just friendly bees around. Dog friendly if it isn't too hot. Follow the cairns to the crag.

Getting There

South of Superior. Check out the map. Take Arnett Road from 177 to the turnoff to the south. Stay straight on this road over a concrete cattle guard, through a wash, and veer left and the intersection. Stay straight on the main road into Wood Canyon till you see the wall on your left along with a road. Park and follow the cairns. The trail stays left and flat and goes left up the drainage and then up the hill. You can get to the top of the cliff by going up a path (see topo) on the north end.
Any 4x4 high clearance vehicle can make it easily. I can make it there with 7 inches of clearance. It can be a bit rough in spots and if it rains there can be some muddy sections.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wood Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Marcy
Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Marcy   Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Nice area with fun climbing! Good work and thanks, Ben and company. Dec 1, 2012
Ben Beard
Superior, AZ
Ben Beard   Superior, AZ
The routes are still being cleaned up a bit. Some bolts need tightening and quick links/biners. Mar 7, 2012

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