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Twin Crags

California > Lake Tahoe > Truckee River Canyon

Description

Columnar basalt cliff above the Truckee River. South- to southwest-facing exposure; best in spring, fall, and winter (when it hasn't snowed recently). Killer views of Lake Tahoe. Gets blockier/more broken the higher you climb, but climbs significantly better than it looks; longer/better climbs on right side of crag. Most routes have a mix of gear and bolts.

Getting There

~1 mile north of Tahoe City; turn off at "Twin Crags Summer Home Tract" sign (on east side of Hwy. 89). Park at end of road, or anywhere that is not obstructing someones driveway. Trail heads out from end of road; ~10 minute hike to crag.

Routes from Left to Right

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 2
● Nick's Route
TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 6
● Cornered
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 5
● Garden Party
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 7
● Iron Jerks
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 11
● Earth Girls Are Easy
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 2
● Pony Climb
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 17
● Made Of Silk
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 2
● Johan's
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
● Tahoe Bolt Murder
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 10
● The Ghost
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 15
● Nipples That Cut Glass
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
● By Fair Means
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
● Chris Toe
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
● Center Wall Corner
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 2
● Wild Bull Rider
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 2
● The Dihedral
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 4
● Dangerous Dan
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
● A Fine Line
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Nick's Route
 2
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a TR
● Cornered
 6
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
● Garden Party
 5
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
● Iron Jerks
 7
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● Earth Girls Are Easy
 11
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad
● Pony Climb
 2
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
● Made Of Silk
 17
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Johan's
 2
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
● Tahoe Bolt Murder
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● The Ghost
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Nipples That Cut Glass
 15
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● By Fair Means
 9
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● Chris Toe
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
● Center Wall Corner
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Wild Bull Rider
 2
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
● The Dihedral
 2
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad
● Dangerous Dan
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad
● A Fine Line
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

For the geology nerds
[Hide Photo] For the geology nerds
Stem boxes! on basalt columns
[Hide Photo] Stem boxes! on basalt columns
Approaching the main part of the wall
[Hide Photo] Approaching the main part of the wall
Sunset
[Hide Photo] Sunset
View from Twin Crag
[Hide Photo] View from Twin Crag
A view of Lake Tahoe from the crags.
[Hide Photo] A view of Lake Tahoe from the crags.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

WadeM
Golden, Co
[Hide Comment] Mostly uninspiring climbing, but gets the job done if you need something close to town. A girdle traverse might be fun along the whole base of the cliff.

I'd drive the extra 20 mins to donner Oct 22, 2014
Ryan Pfleger
Tahoe
[Hide Comment] Very convenient if you live in the Tahoe City area. All fairly short routes, and can be a little dirty. But some good moves in there, and its easy to climb a few routes in an afternoon. Stays warmer than a lot of Donner. Nov 2, 2017
Jacob Straszynski
California
[Hide Comment] Uncrowded, fairly comfortable to set up top ropes on, great views, sunny and warm. Definitely worth the drive to Donner but if you're in the Tahoe City area it's a great distraction. Unlike Big Chief, the approach drive is also mellow - it's just off the 89. About a 15-20 minute hike to the crag from the parking spots.

There's a couple of 5.12s and 5.11s out here that are in Josh Horniaks book. If someone can offer beta on the blank section between the 1st and 2nd bolt on Uncle Sam's a Dirty Man (5.12a) I'm very interested :) May 14, 2020
Bryan H
Redwood CIty, CA
[Hide Comment] Interesting rock (columnar basalt) which makes it a cool outing. TR access/walk off beta: approach from the left side of the formation.. the right side is tons of bushwacking. Aug 15, 2020