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Routes in The Pussy Boulder

Me and My Hoe V-easy 3
Elevation: 357 ft
GPS: 41.579, -71.697 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: M Sprague on Feb 20, 2012
Admins: M Sprague, Joe M.
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Description

I am a bit amazed that we local climbers didn't notice this earlier, considering the embarrassingly easy access, though, due to the suspicious absence of vegetation in some of the cracks, maybe somebody did find it a long time ago and kept it to themself. It doesn't look like anybody has climbed here recently. That should change with some grooming. The name is from the conspicuous graffiti on the side. Thankfully, graffiti is a very rare sight in Arcadia.

This outcrop is made up of high quality, fine grained stone, with comfortable rounded granite flakes, scoops and cracks with the occasional large quartz intrusions that produce flat edges and big pinches.

At first sight there doesn't seem to be anything challenging here, but it is covered by fun looking easy and moderate lines, a place to warm up or just cruise around on. The right side has a mini cave and bulge that tops out around 15 feet and curves around the side. This section could use some cleaning, but looks fairly climbable as is.

To the left is a long, tall, heavily vegetated off vertical section of the same great rock. If it was defoliated it would offer a few fun 20' plus V easies. Around to the right and in back is a marginal short wall that may be all right for some lowballs or a traverse.

Getting There

The Pussy Boulder is a five minute hike up Bliven Trail, about a hundred feet off the trail up to the right. Bliven Trail is a gated old dirt road on the north side of Rt 165, approximately 2 miles west of Rt 3. There is no sign visible until you pull in and park, where there is a kiosk. The signed JB Hudson trail is the next small parking spot a little further west, so if you see that you have just passed here.

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