Taking other people's content (text, photos, etc) without permission is a copyright violation and NOT OKAY!
The Edge is located on private property and is currently CLOSED TO CLIMBING. The landowner does not tolerate trespassing and climbers have been asked to leave. If you would like to help resolve access issues here and elsewhere, please consider joining and donating to the Access Fund.
The following info is for historical purposes only:
I ( Tom Stryker ) contacted a friend who co-authored an old Stover guide with me, and he did have our Edge notes, and graciously organized and mailed them to me. There are 32 trad routes that were led ground up on gear and a few pins. Mel Hamel, Tom Moffatt and I , had our run of the place, and climbed the lines we could with the gear we had at the time.
The original sequence numbers will be a little difficult to use as we always approached from the downstream end (climber's right), but the upstream end (climber's left) is used now.
Only four climbs had fixed gear at the time, between 1981 and 1983, two each in the area behind the Great Wall, one pin on Fruition and one on Thunder Road. In some cases small cams which were not available at the time may allow ascents of climbs where the pitons disappeared, but use some care, particularly on the Rotwand, as we were in deck territory every time we went out the the nose to work on getting some gear.
As I understand it, some routes have been bolted on the Great Wall. The most common center route on this wall has been led on gear at 5.8 X. We did some other routes that were pretty bold, and I am concerned these would get bolted unknowingly. If you are planning to bolt more routes there I would appreciate any opportunity to fill you in on existing trad routes there.
Buttresses and routes, from upstream to downstream.
Rotwand
Great Wall
* Great Wall Nose
* Great Wall (center trad line)
* Great Wall right variation
Leaning Pillar
Buttress 8
Buttress 7
* Would I?
* Harelip
Buttress 6
Central Buttress (Buttress 5)
* Monster Mash
* Tryin' Times
* Stop the Presses
Buttress 4 is short and has no routes.
Buttress 3
Fruition Buttress (Buttress 2)
* Limburger Groove
* Self Cleaning
* Fruition
* Tuition
Buttress 1
The Edge is on private property and currently Closed
Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
---|---|---|---|---|
● The Rotwand |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad | ||
● The Rotwand Direct |
|
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R Trad, TR | ||
● EB, Phone Home |
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad | ||
● Great Wall Left |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR | ||
● Great Wall (center trad line) |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X Trad, TR | ||
● The Great Wall (center - ak… |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR | ||
● Pro-found |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad | ||
● Right Hand Drive |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad | ||
● Strapaducktome |
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad | ||
● Bondage and Discipline |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad | ||
● Don Genero |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad | ||
● Would I? |
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad | ||
● Harelip |
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad | ||
● Three Stooges Go Climbing |
|
A3 PG13 Aid | ||
● Thunder Road |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad | ||
● Simple Solo |
|
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad | ||
● Central Buttress Direct |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad | ||
● Knuckle Sandwich |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad, TR | ||
● The Nose That Roared |
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad | ||
● Shattered |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad | ||
● Flattered |
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad | ||
● Fruition |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR | ||
● Tuition |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c TR | ||
● Dead Men Don't Eat Roughage |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad | ||
● Mel's Route |
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad | ||
● The Tongue That Swung |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad |
NJ
To find out there is a parking lot right above May 14, 2014
Sacramento, CA
Park in the big, popular paved lot, where the swimming pool access is (not the other one for the camping area of Tohickon).
Enjoy! My friends and I did our first (very short) trad leads here, hope you find it similarly memorable.
JJ May 16, 2014
Chatham, NH
If some one has the ability to transfer that information to MP that would be great, otherwise I will pick away at it.
Thanks, Tom Stryker
tstryker@fairpoint.net for more info. Dec 18, 2014
Sacramento, CA
Chatham, NH