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Routes in The Edge

Bondage and Discipline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Central Buttress Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Dead Men Don't Eat Roughage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Don Genero T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
EB, Phone Home T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Flattered T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Fruition T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Wall (center - aka the Pumper), The S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Wall (center trad line) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Harelip T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Knuckle Sandwich T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Mel's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nose That Roared, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pro-found T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Right Hand Drive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rotwand Direct, The T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Rotwand, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Shattered T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Simple Solo T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Strapaducktome T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Three Stooges Go Climbing A3 PG13
Thunder Road T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tongue That Swung, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tuition TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Would I? T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Description

I contacted a friend who co-authored an old Stover guide with me, and he did have our Edge notes, and graciously organized and mailed them to me. There are 32 trad routes that were led ground up on gear and a few pins. Mel Hamel, Tom Moffatt and I ( Tom Stryker ), had our run of the place, and climbed the lines we could with the gear we had at the time.

As far as property, it was always my understanding that it was a part of the Bucks County park, but we sometimes had issues with parking on Cafferty Road, which was private.

The original sequence numbers will be a little difficult to use as we always approached from the downstream end (climber's right), but the upstream end (climber's left) is used now.

Only four climbs had fixed gear at the time, between 1981 and 1983, two each in the area behind the Great Wall, one pin on Fruition and one on Thunder Road. In some cases small cams which were not available at the time may allow ascents of climbs where the pitons disappeared, but use some care, particularly on the Rotwand, as we were in deck territory every time we went out the the nose to work on getting some gear.

As I understand it, some routes have been bolted on the Great Wall. The most common center route on this wall has been led on gear at 5.8 X. We did some other routes that were pretty bold, and I am concerned these would get bolted unknowingly. If you are planning to bolt more routes there I would appreciate any opportunity to fill you in on existing trad routes there.

For official non climbing type information, see the Bucks County Parks and Recreation department's Tohickon Valley Park page for information on paid camping in the park, along with hiking, mountain biking, kayaking and swimming.

Buttresses and routes, from upstream to downstream.

Rotwand

Great Wall
  • Great Wall Nose
  • Great Wall right variation

Leaning Pillar

Buttress 8

Buttress 7

Buttress 6

Central Buttress (Buttress 5)
  • Monster Mash
  • Tryin' Times
  • Stop the Presses

Buttress 4 is short and has no routes.

Buttress 3

Fruition Buttress (Buttress 2)
  • Limburger Groove
  • Self Cleaning

Buttress 1

Getting There

I believe the best way to access the Edge is by parking at the Tohickon Valley Park lot. Go downstream from the pool. Initially you will pass a smaller gray cliff we did a few short routes on, then the Edge proper.

25 Total Climbs

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Eeeegads yes Justin, if you can bring it over to MountainProject please do ! I type really slowly! Cheers, Tom Dec 22, 2014
Justin Johnsen
Nor Cal
Justin Johnsen   Nor Cal  
Hey Tom, that was the beta me and my friends used to climb there when I was still living in Pennsylvania! If you're down to have the same content here, I'm glad to help. I guess whomever gets the urge first can move things here, and if it ends up being me, I can transfer them to your ownership with my admin superpower (ha) so you'll still have credit (and advanced editing powers yourself) for your content when it's reproduced here. Dec 18, 2014
Just letting you all know I posted a database of routes at the Edge, a total of 31 routes, some time ago on Rockclimbing.com in hopes of avoiding existing routes being retro-bolted.

If some one has the ability to transfer that information to MP that would be great, otherwise I will pick away at it.

Thanks, Tom Stryker

tstryker@fairpoint.net for more info. Dec 18, 2014
Justin Johnsen
Nor Cal
Justin Johnsen   Nor Cal  
Hey D, no, I did hike from High Rocks my first time here for some arbitrary adventure! But there's no need.

Park in the big, popular paved lot, where the swimming pool access is (not the other one for the camping area of Tohickon).

Enjoy! My friends and I did our first (very short) trad leads here, hope you find it similarly memorable.

JJ May 16, 2014
Doug Wolfe   NJ
Do you get here from the same parking lot as stover? Don't mind the hike just don't want to run into a boat load of people after hiking a few miles...
To find out there is a parking lot right above May 14, 2014

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