The Edge Rock Climbing
Routes in The Edge
|Bondage and Discipline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Central Buttress Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Dead Men Don't Eat Roughage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Don Genero T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|EB, Phone Home T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R|
|Flattered T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Fruition T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Great Wall (center - aka the Pumper), The S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Great Wall (center trad line) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X|
|Harelip T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Knuckle Sandwich T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Mel's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Nose That Roared, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Pro-found T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Right Hand Drive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Rotwand Direct, The T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R|
|Rotwand, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Shattered T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Simple Solo T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Strapaducktome T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Three Stooges Go Climbing A3 PG13|
|Thunder Road T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Tongue That Swung, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Tuition TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Would I? T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|GPS:||40.434, -75.074 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||Tom Stryker on Feb 17, 2012|
|Admins:||Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp|
DescriptionI contacted a friend who co-authored an old Stover guide with me, and he did have our Edge notes, and graciously organized and mailed them to me. There are 32 trad routes that were led ground up on gear and a few pins. Mel Hamel, Tom Moffatt and I ( Tom Stryker ), had our run of the place, and climbed the lines we could with the gear we had at the time.
As far as property, it was always my understanding that it was a part of the Bucks County park, but we sometimes had issues with parking on Cafferty Road, which was private.
The original sequence numbers will be a little difficult to use as we always approached from the downstream end (climber's right), but the upstream end (climber's left) is used now.
Only four climbs had fixed gear at the time, between 1981 and 1983, two each in the area behind the Great Wall, one pin on Fruition and one on Thunder Road. In some cases small cams which were not available at the time may allow ascents of climbs where the pitons disappeared, but use some care, particularly on the Rotwand, as we were in deck territory every time we went out the the nose to work on getting some gear.
As I understand it, some routes have been bolted on the Great Wall. The most common center route on this wall has been led on gear at 5.8 X. We did some other routes that were pretty bold, and I am concerned these would get bolted unknowingly. If you are planning to bolt more routes there I would appreciate any opportunity to fill you in on existing trad routes there.
For official non climbing type information, see the Bucks County Parks and Recreation department's Tohickon Valley Park page for information on paid camping in the park, along with hiking, mountain biking, kayaking and swimming.
Buttresses and routes, from upstream to downstream.
- Great Wall Nose
- Great Wall right variation
Central Buttress (Buttress 5)
- Monster Mash
- Tryin' Times
- Stop the Presses
Buttress 4 is short and has no routes.
Fruition Buttress (Buttress 2)
- Limburger Groove
- Self Cleaning
Classic Climbing Routes at The Edge
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season