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Flatrock

International > N America > Canada > Newfoundland &… > Newfoundland > Avalon Peninsula

Description

The highest concentration of established routes and boulder problems in Newfoundland. The crags are secluded, but have short (<15 min) approaches. The unique scenery, lack of bugs and high quality climbing makes flatrock the best climbing destination on the Avalon Peninsula in the summer months. In addition, it is common to see whales from the crags in Late June through July.

The rock is a high quality conglomerate sandstone which is usually vertical, with occasional roofs. The routes are usually mixed pro, however if there is no good gear available, there will typically be bolts. Trad climbing at Flatrock has some quirks. The pebbly nature of the rock creates challenging gear placements; combining this with the steep nature of the rock, it is best to be conservative with initial route choices. While the most prevalent and highest quality routes at Flatrock are in the 5.9 - 5.10 trad range, there are a number of fully bolted sport climbs, and almost-sport climbs which involve a gear placement or two. Additionally, most routes have bolted anchors which can be used to set a toprope. While Main Face has the most routes and is one of the tallest faces in Flatrock, there are other crags worthy of consideration. On all but the warmest summer days, chasing sun is a safe bet. East facing crags which get morning sun include Main Face, UV ray, Spankys and the Locker. Blood Bath faces west, which is a good afternoon destination if time is short.

Bouldering is a mix between small boulders and many shorter sea cliffs. Due to the vertical nature of the rock, there are few hard problems, but endless moderates from VB to V3. High quality problems in the harder grades include Making Love to a Kenmore (V4/5), Nosferatu (V5), the Wire (V8) and commitment to quality (V10).

Getting There

The town of Flatrock is about 20 minutes North of St. John's. In the town there are two parking areas for the east coast trail, which are also the designated parking areas for climbers. For the International and Locker areas you can park in St. Michael's church parking lot on Wind Gap Road and for all other areas you can park at the East Coast Trail lot just past the public wharf. Parking on Wade's Lane is no longer permitted, upon request of the town of Flatrock, please used the designated parking areas. The suggested approach to Main Face has changed since the release of the 2008 climbing guide, please refer to the map for more details.

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Often looks and feels exactly like this
[Hide Photo] Often looks and feels exactly like this
Current approach to main face (as of 2018)
[Hide Photo] Current approach to main face (as of 2018)
Main Face
[Hide Photo] Main Face

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[Hide Comment] The trail above the parking on Wades Lane has been marked with private property signs. Please avoid using the trail as there is an equally effective trail slightly back down the road towards Windgap. Approach details have been updated on the affected areas (Main Face and Spanky's Playground). Jun 1, 2015