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Evandale Quarry

International > N America > Canada > New Brunswick

Description

This is an old quarry that contains excellent quality granite. There are nices faces and cracks to play on with a few boulder pads. Some faces are tall some aren't. If you feel timid you could even bring a short top rope or a rack and horse around on some of the highball boulder problems.

Getting There

3km North of the Evandale Ferry. Can't miss it will be on the western side of the HWY 102.

Routes from Left to Right

V1+ 5
 2
● Stonehenge 1
Boulder
V0+ 4+
 1
● stonehenge 2
Boulder
V-easy 3
 2
● The Holy One
Boulder
V4-5 6B+
 4
● Charlie and the Chalk-It Factory
Boulder
V2 5+
 2
● Balls to the Wall
Boulder
V2 5+
 3
● Classic Corner
Boulder
V-easy 3
 2
● Walk in the Park
Boulder
V3 6A
 2
● Espresso
Boulder
V3 6A PG13
 2
● Clayton Bigsby
Boulder
V1 5 PG13
 4
● The Hand crack
Boulder
V0 4
 1
● Access granite
Boulder
V1+ 5
 1
● Lay Back Then
Boulder
V1+ 5
 1
● Quartz Crack
Boulder
V2 5+
 2
● Four Finger Start
Boulder
V0 4
 1
● Rotten rock
Boulder
V0+ 4+
 1
● Crank to Crack
Boulder
V2+ 5+
 1
● Upper Tier Arret
Boulder
V0- 4-
 1
● Bare Foot
Boulder
V0- 4-
 1
● Bear Feet
Boulder
V2+ 5+
 2
● Slabtacular
Boulder
V2 5+
 4
● Sexual Education
Boulder
V2-3 5+
 2
● Left, Right, Left, Fly
Boulder
V0+ 4+
 2
● Mossy Arret
Boulder
V-easy 3 PG13
 1
● Epic Slabs
Boulder
V1 5
 1
● Kael's Corner
Boulder
V3 6A
 4
● the Birds and the Bees
Boulder
V0- 4-
 1
● Block
Boulder
V1 5
 1
● Giver
Boulder
V-easy 3
 2
● Arrow Head
Boulder
V0+ 4+
 1
● Bluebird
Boulder
V1+ 5
 2
● Git-R-Done
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Stonehenge 1
 2
V1+ 5 Boulder
● stonehenge 2
 1
V0+ 4+ Boulder
● The Holy One
 2
V-easy 3 Boulder
● Charlie and the Chalk-It Fa…
 4
V4-5 6B+ Boulder
● Balls to the Wall
 2
V2 5+ Boulder
● Classic Corner
 3
V2 5+ Boulder
● Walk in the Park
 2
V-easy 3 Boulder
● Espresso
 2
V3 6A Boulder
● Clayton Bigsby
 2
V3 6A PG13 Boulder
● The Hand crack
 4
V1 5 PG13 Boulder
● Access granite
 1
V0 4 Boulder
● Lay Back Then
 1
V1+ 5 Boulder
● Quartz Crack
 1
V1+ 5 Boulder
● Four Finger Start
 2
V2 5+ Boulder
● Rotten rock
 1
V0 4 Boulder
● Crank to Crack
 1
V0+ 4+ Boulder
● Upper Tier Arret
 1
V2+ 5+ Boulder
● Bare Foot
 1
V0- 4- Boulder
● Bear Feet
 1
V0- 4- Boulder
● Slabtacular
 2
V2+ 5+ Boulder
● Sexual Education
 4
V2 5+ Boulder
● Left, Right, Left, Fly
 2
V2-3 5+ Boulder
● Mossy Arret
 2
V0+ 4+ Boulder
● Epic Slabs
 1
V-easy 3 PG13 Boulder
● Kael's Corner
 1
V1 5 Boulder
● the Birds and the Bees
 4
V3 6A Boulder
● Block
 1
V0- 4- Boulder
● Giver
 1
V1 5 Boulder
● Arrow Head
 2
V-easy 3 Boulder
● Bluebird
 1
V0+ 4+ Boulder
● Git-R-Done
 2
V1+ 5 Boulder

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

An updated look at Evandale Quarry, shot from the entrance. This shows a lot of the changes to the walls that some original boulder problems were created on. Not pictured are the lower tier east wall and middle tier corner.
[Hide Photo] An updated look at Evandale Quarry, shot from the entrance. This shows a lot of the changes to the walls that some original boulder problems were created on. Not pictured are the lower tier east wa…
Lower Tier East Wall, with plenty of routes still intact. Still a few projects in here that could be made.
[Hide Photo] Lower Tier East Wall, with plenty of routes still intact. Still a few projects in here that could be made.
Lower Tier North Wall, with all routes destroyed due to activity in past years. Use the slope to get to the next tier. Many great projects to be made on this wall, especially highballs.
[Hide Photo] Lower Tier North Wall, with all routes destroyed due to activity in past years. Use the slope to get to the next tier. Many great projects to be made on this wall, especially highballs.
Lower Tier West Wall, showing all routes that still exist.
[Hide Photo] Lower Tier West Wall, showing all routes that still exist.
Clayton Bigsby = Pink<br> The Hand Crack = Green<br> The Birds and The Bees = Blue<br> Kael's Corner = orange <br> Upper Tier Arret = Red
[Hide Photo] Clayton Bigsby = Pink The Hand Crack = Green The Birds and The Bees = Blue Kael's Corner = orange Upper Tier Arret = Red
Evandale Quarry
[Hide Photo] Evandale Quarry

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ian Lingley
East coast Canada
[Hide Comment] Hey Dom, Good use of the site. This quarry looks bad ass, there a few small cliffs and boulders up around those parts. Keep exploring!! Feb 16, 2012
Ian Lingley
East coast Canada
[Hide Comment] The below link is from Eric Fox's website, the photos are from the climb Kael's Corner, Classic Corner, Balls to the Wall and Giver.

foxtography.ca/Climbing/Eva… Aug 27, 2012
Ian Lingley
East coast Canada
[Hide Comment] I haven't been to the Quarry in a year but i heard the Quarry is active again. If the Quarry is active people should keep out. If are up to the quarry please post any info available. Sep 12, 2013
Caleb Mazurkiewicz
Fredericton, NB
[Hide Comment] There has been some activity in the quarry since some of the routes were established and unfortunately have been distorted. Most are still remaining. Really fun place to spend an afternoon. Lots of potential for more FA’s. There is everything from small 6 foot boulders to scary 30+ ft lines. Mar 22, 2021
Alexander LeBlanc
Saint John
[Hide Comment] Took a drive up to this spot today, was a super cool place! However as Caleb said, there was definitely some work done here after the original routes were created, and a number of the routes here are missing or heavily changed (Classic Corner, Walk in the Park, Expresso, Clayton Bigsby, The Hand Crack, Birds and the Bees, Sexual Education). Just a heads up for anyone going here.

Still a great place to climb, but make sure to bring some heavy bugspray! May 17, 2021